1998 Bravada - Lights For Gauge Cluster In Dash Not Coming On
Mar 16, 2012
I bought my son his first vehicle, a 98 Bravada. We've had it less than a week and so far the major problem we have come across is the lights in for the gauge cluster in the dash are not coming on. First I thought it was a blown bulb so we replaced that. When we were putting the dash back together, I turned the truck on and turned on the headlights and got nothing. So I jiggled some wires thinking that it might've been a short or a loose wire and still nothing. It was getting dark so my son decided to put everything back together and try again in the morning. When he reconnected the connector for the dome/fog light, everything came back on. But when he moved the dashboard to put it back in place, everything went back out again. Again, I jiggled wires and nothing, not even a flicker. Now there's no lights in the dash and when he turns on the headlights, the radio lights go out along with the compass/MPG gauge located overhead.
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I have 1998 Plymouth neon. It does this more in the hot month than the cold month but I drive down the road and the dash cluster will go out no tach, speed, no gauge, mileage will not work but all dash light, signal light, high beam all will work.
It seems that when it cools off some, some time a minute sometimes a few minutes when it comes on the seat belt and airbag light come on or you can turn off the key for a few seconds and it will come on, bums will not make it go out or come back on.
What can it be?
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My father was driving his 2007 sport trac limited on his way home tonight and all of a sudden he lost all of the instruments in the gauge cluster. At the same time all the indicator lights came on. the truck kept running along with the air conditioning and radio, just lost the instrument cluster. almost like when you first turn the key on before starting. when he got home and turned the truck off, it would not re-start. when you turned the key on even the odometer was blank. when you tried to start it it wouldnt even try to crank. i unhooked the battery and hooked it back up. after about 5 key cycles of not starting like previously, it finally started.
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I have a 98 chevy blazer that the dash lights and interment cluster (including odometer) only works at night when u turn on the headlights by the switch. And the truck starts sometimes. I placed a piece of tape over the sensor on the dash for the auto lights( this made the dash, interment, odometer work) but now truck will not start. I've been told its the ignition switch.
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I just Put an 98 1.8 T engine into a 2000 2.8 passat , Everything is working fine , But The Tachometer , The Rpm And The temperature Gauges in the cluster are not working ... The Fuel Gauge also Beep and indicate low fuel when i'm turning ... Actually , the car has the V6 Cluster , i switch those and it make no difference ....
All the wires are hooked up in the ecm compartement , each wire with good color ...
Is someone has both wiring diagram of ecm compartment plug ?? 2000 v6 and 98 1.8T
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So recently (past few weeks) I've noticed my temperature gauge on the dash cluster doesn't jump up to 190 as it had before. It just sits there when I start the car, and then eventually builds up as I start driving. Reason this concerns me is because I don't remember this ever happening.
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Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
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First, when I downshift to 2nd gear for instance, I don't feel like the car slows down any and I'm still needing to hit the brakes to slow down. In previous cars, going to 2nd would seem to make revs go up and slow the car down. Wondering if this is common on the Golf R to almost feel nothing when downshifting?
Second, my gauge cluster lights up when I'm driving outside w/o the lights on. When I go into a parking deck the gauge cluster starts out lit and then goes completely black except for the blue needles. Wondering if this is normal or if I have a cluster issue?
Car has 17,000 miles on it and completely stock minus the soundaktor removed.
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All of my interior lights went out. Except for dome lights etc. Here's a more detailed description. Every light effected by the dimmer on the left side near the ECS button don't work. I'm assuming it's a fuse.
Cluster gauges still work fine. The lights just don't work.
Note: Both headlights are out so I don't know if that could be connected in some way. Haven't been able to change them yet.
So, which fuse this would be? I can't seem to find it. Or if it could even be a fuse?
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My Gauge Cluster and Climate Control lights are out. Both still function properly. The mileage is light up and the turn singles work, the dummy lights even light up but when the headlights come on, the gauges don't illuminate. Same goes for the climate control; it works and the display is good but the buttons don't light up.
I replaced the headlight switch was I wasn't getting power to the light blue/red wire on the dimmer side. (Dr. Google told me to do this) Both failed at the same time so I'm thinking it is not a bulb issue. What to chase next?
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Any work around/fix for the gauge brightness dropping so dramatically with the headlights on? I have it maxed out on the rocker switch (brightest) but would like to be closer or equal to daytime brightness.
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Well I have got a 2000 Excursion with v10 that I've been having some electrical problems with lately. All started with a no start issue and gauge cluster warning lights staying on along with fuel and volt gauges reading without the keys being in the ignition. Took it in to the dealership to get looked at and they are saying it needs a new fuse box and gem module put in it. Was also told that it is an obsolete part and gonna be tricky trying to find the correct one for my truck as it needs to be identical to what my truck has as options. Is there any other places out there making new ones or fixing gem modules? Dealership pretty much told me if they can't find a new gem module for it that the truck is pretty much dead in the water.
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Just started happening today. Dash cluster beeps, all warning lights flash, then gauges and lights go dead while under acceleration or cruising. Upon stop and return to idle the dash starts to operate properly until I take my foot off the brake pedal and start to accelerate. Tried searching and didn't find anything. What are the possible causes?
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This started just today. I have a strange ticking noise coming from right behind my gauge cluster. The frequency of the ticking is tied directly to my speed. It begins when I drive off and slows to a stop when I stop (almost like a "baseball card in a bicycle spoke" sound, but just not as loud). What this might be? Could it have something to do with the speedometer? Odometer?
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I have a problem with my gauges. Sometimes my RPM gauge works, and sometimes it doesn't.
When I approach the car and open the door, I hear a weird noise coming from the gauge cluster (or a nearby area). When I start the car, none of my gauges work, and you can see the temperature, speed, and fuel gauges flickering. After about 10 or 15 seconds all gauges fire up, except for the RPM gauge.
The flickering does not always occur, but my RPM gauge is dead most of the time. It works once in a while in the morning when I start the car, but once I shut down the car and start it again, I loose my RPM gauge the rest of the day.
I think the noise I hear behind the cluster or inside the steering wheel area has something to do with this problem because the cluster problem arouse when I started hearing the noise.
I managed to put the problem on video, and you may see it here. If you focus your attention on the fuel and temperature gauges right after I start the car, you will see the flickering. You will then see the needles jump to their correct readings about 15 seconds after the car starts, but as you can see the RPM gauge is dead.
YouTube : [URL] .....
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So I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
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I've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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There's a clicking noise in the dash behind the headlight switch and all the cluster lights blink on and off when I turn the key. If I try to start it-nothing! If I pull the key out and try again all the blinker lights stay on. Could it be my aftermarket alarm or something else? I didn't have much luck searching.
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I have a 98 bravada that is leaking oil from drivers side of engine just above u joints on front driveshaft. pours out on start then stops. does again on stop.what is there to cause?
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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