Every time I fire up my 97 4.3l blazer it knocks and taps super loud until it warms up a little. Every morning I hold my breath. And its only on first start. After it has been run there is no noise. Why is this happening? Is something failing? It has over 100,000 miles
View 3 RepliesI just picked up my first truck ever yesterday, a 2012 F250 crew 4x4 with the 6.2L gas engine. It seems to me, when the engine is cold, that it raps or knocks for a second or two immediately after startup...is this characteristic? The truck is a 'new-leftover' model with about 28 miles on it so far. When warm, or even semi-warm, the engine starts right up and sounds like a healthy american V8.
View 14 Replies'91 Blazer, S10, 2wd, 300,000 mi ....when weather cold, and car cold, I hear a loud slapping sound that I thought was a fan belt, but checked and they are ok...when car warms up, or when weather warm, I don't hear the slapping..... sounds like belt against plastic,,,,???
View 7 RepliesSo I started getting this metallic/harmonic whining sound from my GTI's engine a few weeks ago. It was barely noticeable then, but has now gotten louder and more consistent. The sound occurs once the engine has warmed up and can be reproduced by holding the revs constant anywhere above 2k. The sound does not change in pitch with engine speed. It doesn't matter if the car is parked or moving.
I've attached a video... The sound can heard starting at 00:23 and becomes constant after a few seconds. Its hard to hear at first, but if you listen carefully its definitely there.
I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow and will update with their findings. In the meantime, any clue as to what this could be? I can't really pinpoint where its coming from, seems loudest near where the oil filter is? By the way I'm 100% stock.
My wifes 2006 mountaineer V8 overheats. She says itll only do it sometimes after the truck has been warmed up. She will come top a stop and the temp will spike and she will get a warning light then it will go back to normal and be fine. When the temp spikes she hears a loud whooshing or whirling sound coming from the motor which I supposed is the fan? Could it be a bad thermostat or waterpump?
View 1 RepliesOn cold start ups only I can hear a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's a consistent sound that goes away after the engine warms up and idles down. Could it be the belts? I'm not concerned to be honest because the engine runs fine.
NOTE: I have also noticed that when cold in between shifts the vehicle seems to hesitate, almost as if trying to catch up. Hard to explain, but it only happens when the engine is cold.
Just had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
View 8 RepliesI am installing a Parrot Asteroid Smart into a 2010 XLT without sub or sync. I will also be hooking up a reverse camera. All wires are ran and the harness is built. I have two wires that I am having problems with to make everything function correctly.
Coming from the Parrot, I need to tap into the Reverse Gear and Park Brake. They are separate wires. Where can I tap into these wires? On the side of the shifter I do see three wires but I am not sure where they are going.
my 97 chevy blazer has a lot of cranking first start in the day. I changed the rotor and distributor cap but I don't smell any fuel then all fo asudden it will start. I am wondering is it a fuel relay problem, a fuel filter, or some sort of sensor. when it does start it is very smooth running no shaking or hesitation full of power for the rest of the day starts and stops erands . is it worth buying a plug in code gadget and will this problem show up as a code.
View 4 RepliesWants to crank. I notice when I turn the key switch on (not start) the gas gauge pegs out as if a super full tank and no fuel pump noise. At times, leading up to the crank but no start condition, I would turn the key on, hear the fuel pump and the gas gauge would indicate proper fuel level. When this happened, the vehicle ALWAYS started.
Here what I know now;
1. Fuel pump works. As indicated by the red auxellery jumper lead inside the engine well.
2. Good fuel pressure.
3. Starter checks good.
4. Battery hot and leads are cleaned.
5. Grounds in engine compartment and at fuel tank are cleaned.
6. Vehicle does have gas.
7. Air bag light stays on, even after pulling battery leads, letting set, and reinstalling.
This ABS light would come on and go off independently before the "crank but no start condition". So I'm assuming that the ABS might be its own problem; but not contributing to the crank but no start condition? There were problems leading up to the no start condition. Vehicle began to become hard to start (but would start). After starting (at idle) if the gas pedal was pressed aggressively, the "service engine" light would flash on and off rapidly and the "ABS" light would come on. At this point the vehicle wanted to die. No apparent codes were given.
Now the "crank but no start condition". Before this problem, the vehicle was sending the code for 3 o2 sensors. But a new fuel filter corrected this problem completely with no further apparent problems. Then (about 4 weeks later) the "crank but no start". I do not think the fuel filter and the "crank but no start" problems are related.? No other maintenance has been done to this vehicle that might cause this problem. At this point the manual I am using is useless...
I have a '97 Chev Blazer. I had transmission rebuilt. Not even a week after having this done, I start hearing a sound (that literally sounds like an airplane) coming from the front of the car. It ONLY happens when the car is going 45+ mph. When I slow down it gets louder & then you hear a "klunk' when you come to a complete stop. It then will stop until you get back up to that speed again. What in the world this could be? Someone suggested a 4WD problem. It is not the wheel bearings. I had new tires put on and checked right after this problem started. Could it have anything at all to do with the transmission that they rebuilt?
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. I have had issues where I could not start my truck and determined it could be the battery. After checking alternator, battery, and starter I was told that all were good. Cleaning terminals did not fix problem. I got a new battery. So I have determined that a power drain is going on somewhere. I have now found that when I shift the transmission from drive to reverse or vice versa that the rear hatch window comes open. As I shift the gear I hear the latch popping behind me. Now I have determined that there is a short somewhere and this could be the cause of my power drain. What I need to know is where to start looking for the default and how to fix my problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 f150 with a 4.9..... I drove it less than a half a mile and shut it off. when I got back in it to start it up it wouldn't do anything like the battery was dead but all the electrical worked but it would not turn over. after about 4 hours when I returned, it started just fine. drove it straight home and shut it off and immediately tried to start it again and had the same issue. What the culprit may be ?
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
This is what I have done I have 5.4 168,000 on motor . I have codes p0401 p0701 p0704 and some others .I can run truck for about 15min and it starts to lose power .I can't go over 1500 rpm . I have changed egr cleaned throttle body checked for vacum leaks changed the dpfe . new plugs . I have had a misfire code on number 1 but that code has stopped . I have put new fuel filter .I have a cheap scanner I use and it probably won't give me what I want also I changed down stream 02 sensors .
View 14 RepliesLately my car has a super slow take off in the morning. Granted I let it marginally warm up. But it takes such a long time as I am trying to merge into highway traffic. The RPM thingee slowly climbs up to 4 before it shifts. The gas pedal is to the floor. Hope this isn't a pricey transmission issue.
View 8 RepliesMy '01 F-150 2WD, XLT has a foghorn sound coming from the left front side at idle after the 4.6L is warmed up. It goes away with an increase in engine RPM and is unnoticeable at hwy speeds. I have no codes (I have checked w/ my code reader). The service desk guy at the stealer said it is my abs pump going bad (I figured it was a pump of some sort, my 55 packard PS makes the same noise when almost empty-the system leaks). It also appears this is a stealer only part, and going to cost 6 or 7 benjamins to buy and probably another 5 benjamins too fix.
View 4 RepliesI am new to the v10 I only ever owned 7.3 this is my father truck it's a 99 with 200k on it. The problem is it will idle fine when cold but when it is warned up very ruff idle no codes and when I go back at the end of this week I will check the O2 sensor with AE but I really don't know much about it.
View 2 Replies1995 7.3L f350 400k mi developed 1poss 2 cyl miss does not change after warm up and will die after 10 min .
View 1 RepliesShade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
View 8 Replies