1997 Chevy Silverado Tranny - Started Making Clicking And Whining Noise And Wouldn't Back Up
Dec 3, 2012
I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Camaro z28 5.7 with about 135,000 miles. It made a whining/humming noise recently. It sounded soft at first, added oil the. Noise would go away. One time it got REALLY loud, spooked my girlfriend as well as me, then it stalled out and died. I checked the oil but that was fine so it bothere me even more. So I Let it sit for a few minutes then started with no problem. It happened again recently but i slowed down an it gt really loud again. Let it rest then tried going home. I was going about 75 miles per hour until it didn't want to give gas and started to stall. I pulled over and shut it off for a bit them drove it home while it did that stalling out about twice more.
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I have a 1997 Chevrolet pickup, the No.5 Spark Plug Builds up and fires to one side, I can drive up to 50 miles per hr and it misses once in a while, I can get up to 60-65 and it does the same. I changed out no.5 Fuel injector and it still misses, I changed out the seals on no 5 valve, I changed out the fuel filter; and the CSFI makes a whistling noise & the sequential fuel box makes a vibration. I can put the old filter back on and it doesn't whistle or vibrate. I put the new filter back on it whistles and vibrates the sequential fuel box. The trouble light does not come on and tells me to check the engine. Do I need to replace the fuel pump?
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Accidently ejected my map dvd...located just under my Nav screen under a piece that has Lexus on it. It slides right up and the dvd came out. Cant get it to stay in now. Only makes clicking sound! So frustrated. How do I get the dvd player out? Removing the dashboard? My dvd player isn't in the dashboard though!
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So I was driving my wife to dinner the other night, it was about 30* F out and the mirror started making a clicking noise (of course, I had no clue it was the mirror until I stopped and looked around). Sure enough, the mirror was clicking and the display was going back and forth between the "188" (the start-up display) and "NW" or "W" or whatever direction we were traveling in.
Obviously the clicking noise is a relay.
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The other night I was going up the mountain and while going it started making a clicking noise..probably from no oil..We had been told from the dealership there was a small leak but nothing to worry about at the moment.We tested it and it wasn't leaking visibly but I guess with it getting cold out the hole got bigger and we didn't notice so all the oil leaked out as we were powering the lil car through the mountains..Needless to say on the cruise down it started shaking i saw some sparks and I think the rod went through my engine block and we broke down. It's completely dead. The car has right around 200,000 miles on it and has always been very well taken care of.I just traded my dad the car about 7 months ago for my 4-runner cause of gas prices..I moved across the country and of course have had NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS since day one.
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I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
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Its a 06, 80k on it, a few days start making this (thud) noise on the back, if I push the brake and let it go I heard that thud noise, like the rear deferential or the brakes, but not sure.
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
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2002 f150 fx4 ... I changed both front cv shafts cause they were making noise and the u joints and I still have a clicking noise in reverse if I turn my wheel at all to the right ...
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My 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
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I installed a new motor in a 1990 chevy Silverado about 5 months ago. every time i start it there is a loud clunky noise which goes away after about 1 or 2 minutes.I took apart the exhaust.. why does #2 cylinder have rust on the exhaust port not black soot?
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On my 2003 f150 4 by 4 I've been hearing clicking noises. When i take off from the start it starts clicking then gets faster up until I hit about 30 mph then goes away. The sound is coming from the back. Whenever I goes in reverse it rattles a little bit too (not so much of the clicking). Do I have a bad u joint somewhere back there?
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I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)
Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.
As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.
Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.
After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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This time it's about my tranny. After putting on 034 motorsport track density mounts, this whining noise started coming apparent and it's pretty loud and it's coming from the tranny area. Not sure of the fact that the mounts are so stiff has anything to do with it, but here goes...
It's like a slight grinding/mechanical whine noise that happens only when in gear and under load. It gets louder as the speed/rpm's get higher and happens in every gear. Funny, but sounds like a mechanical supercharger whine that you'd get from a supercharged car. When the car is idling, there is nothing wrong/no noise.
Clutch is not slipping, power feels just like it did before, my clutch pedal doesn't get stuck nor is it hard to push down.
A few initial diagnoses from friends were that there is some sort of shaft play in the tranny or that it may very well be a synchro.
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I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 liter extended cab. Recently have been having issues with the A/C system making lots of noise. I have identified the noise to two spots and I believe 2 actuators..
1) behind the glove box to the fresh air / recirc door there is a constant clicking / grinding noise. Toggling the recirc button causes the noise to oscillate and the recirc door can be moved by hand, so seems the actuator is basically gone...
2) When the mode is to face only there is a gurgling / clicking noise. When I move the mode selector a little bit off of face only, the noise seems to stop.
I have been looking and looking for a solid write up for the recirc door, can't even seem to find anything that is solid on the part number for that. Seems like I could probably get my hand up behind the glove box to take off that actuator and get the part number, read a couple of write ups that seem to suggest that it is incredibly tight and hard to get to, but it can be done.
Wondering if I just remove the top of the dash while going after the mode door actuator to make life easier? And do I need to get in there with the blend door actuator while I am doing the other two? No dual climate control, so does that leave me with only three actuators? I have the "automatic" a/c controls which are knobs on the dash, I believe these are automatic, not the slides that I believe are referred to as manual?
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I have a 97 f150 (built 96 as 97 model), 4.2l 4x4, auto tranny. Here's the problem, when I turn my key forward to run position my starter kicks on and starts the truck, and stays engaged. I have a constant 14v at the signal wire on the starter relay (yellow red stripe). Also tranny started to slip, od light flashing. I replaced ignition lock cylinder, ignition/ starter switch, starter relay, starter, and today transmission range sensor (neutral safety switch 8 pin), same problem. Cel code that I had 2 days ago was P0707 tr sensor low input.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6 speed O2M transmission.
I was redlining 1st 2nd and it wouldn't go into 3rd tried 2-3 times finally did. but I believe it went into first instead! I think I was driving like 50-60 mpg I don't know. Anyways it JERKED BADLY. I think right after it started making a noise. sounds like the manifold or downpipe gasket. I know the flex part of my cheap downpipe started like tearing and ripping, so I thought that just broke thru. maybe I don't know. I drove the car home. tranny worked flawlessly. every gear very smooth like always. (redline tranny fluid). at home I jacked it up took the bumper off. and listened where the sounds were coming from. not power steering. it sounds like a hose is loose. but I checked nothing. I put my ear next to the tranny. sounds like it coming from there. nothing changes when I depress the clutch. when I start driving the sound goes away I think. can't hear the cause of aftermarket exhaust. and stage 2 chip tunning APR 93.
After all, that believing it the downpipe. I put everything back on and drove it about 10 miles and this other sound came in. happened in 2nd after like 4-5krpm. maybe it was there from the beginning. I drove it slowly under 3k. but this sound is like rattling and kinda vibrates the clutch a little. it happens after I accelerate and take my foot off the gas pedal. kinda when slowing down. I drove parked the car 2 hours later drove it home and 2-5th gear was making this rattling sound now.
I don't know what to do. I need to drive a car. should I drive it or not? do I need a new tranny/ is it fixable? should I park the car and take the tranny off/
how tightly are the flywheel bolts suppose to be tightened? something loose?
I did an auto to 6-speed swap.
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I recently starting hearing a very audible clicking/ticking sound in the rear that happens for about a second each time the car is started. After, everything seems to be just fine, but I don't know if this is something I should be concerned about.
I recently did some suspension work and I don't know if this is somehow related or if I'm now just extra sensitive to the sounds my car makes after the work was done. Perhaps the auto parking brake disengaging?
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