1996 Blazer - Flashing Cel Light P300 Multiple Cylinder Misfire?
Feb 24, 2013
So my 96 blazers cel started flashing and the truck started running extremely rough. I changed the catalytic converter and the o2 sensor that is in the pipe. Made no difference. So I knew my intake manifold gasket has a leak so I changed the gaskets and put knew bolts in. I wasn't thinking and took my distributor out and forgot to mark the timing. So played like heck getting it in timing again. Took a bit cause I didn't realize there was two timing marks. So got it started again was running really rough so thought 180 off turned it nothing. So put it back started it up still running very rough and flashing cel so put a new crank sensor and cam sensor in and a ignition coil in. No dif still. Could it be the egr or ECM?
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2000 Tacoma v6 has has always ran good, but has check engine light code P300 & P306. cly 3 & cly 6 missfire, lean bank 1. Vacuum test showed no problems.
I've changed plugs & wires, switched coils around cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked timing. Ran Seafoam through intake, and gas tank. Check engine light went out for about three miles, then came back on. What else can I do to keep that blinking check engine light off?
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2008 Buick Lacrosse CXL .. My son said the Oil pressure low light came on when he tried to start the car. It didn't want to start.
When I got there two hours later, it started but had a check engine light. But no low oil pressure light. Sounded like it was missing.
Code from computer came back P0300 "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected". I cleared the code. Revved the engine to about 2000 RPM's and the CEL came back on.
Same code. When idling it feels like it's missing. The plugs look good, I am going to replace the ICM.
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Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
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1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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My car has been really acting up lately (AGAIN) so I took it in to have it looked at and they came back and told me it had multiple cylinder misfire, and they wanted like $1200 to fix it. What in the world does that mean and what is entailed in fixing it? They mentioned doing a full maintenance on it.
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The Problem: Multiple Cylinder Random Misfire, Misfire on Cyl 2 and Cyl 3 codes. Runs fine on highway after first start in the am. Begins to misfire badly/throw code within 1 mile after exiting highway driving and starting "stop and go" city driving
The Car: 1999 VW Passat 1.8t "AEB" engine code
192,xxx miles. Greedspeed/Neuspeed ECU. All else is stock
****ICM module replaced less than 1000 miles ago due to misfire/similar problem. All was fine until now*****
Compression tested (cyl 1-4): 155lbs, 150lbs, 145lbs, 155lbs
Repairs/troubleshooting tried already:
Swapped cyl 2 and 3 coils for cyl 1 and 4. Result: problem remains / same error codes (cyl 2 and 3 misfire / random misfire)
Swapped cyl 2 and 3 injectors for cyl 1 and 4. Result: no change, problem remains
Tech is suggesting fuel system cleaning (to eliminate any carbon deposits in cylinders and clean injectors). Then look at replacing injectors if problem persists. Could I have another bad ICM?
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Replaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
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Car threw a multiple cylinder misfire, changed plugs, wires, and then coil packs. Code keeps coming back.
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What is going on with my sisters passat 2002 V6 GLX Auto 4Motion. Here is the codes:
16730-Camshaft Position Sensor (G163) Implausible Signal
P0346-35-00
16684-Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300-35-00
16688-Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304-35-00
16690- Cylinder 6: Misfire Detected
P0306-35-00
16689-Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected
P0305-35-00
I changed Both sensors and it still same problem. Car only has 40,000 miles didnt change timing belt.
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my car was running fine yesterday. Today the check engine light came on and it started to run funny.. I checked the diagnostic code and it says the the cylinder is misfiring and that oxsygun sensor is malfunctioning. (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected)
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We bought the car used for my youngest daughter and it had a couple of codes in it. 1st was the o2 sensor.. easy fix, grabbed an OEM one and stuck it in. Then there was the Cyl 2/ multiple cyl misfire codes that kept getting thrown.
I've seen a bunch of post about people pretty much doing the same things I started out with and still having a problem.....
1) Swapped around all the coils.. still got a #2 misfire... So, coils are good.
2) Swapped in NGK Platinum plugs with a .032 gap.... still getting misfire.
3) Replaced the crank shaft position sensor...... still misfire
4) Noticed that there was an Ebay injector in the #2 cyl...... when I pulled the plugs, that cyl was running a little lean..... bought an OEM injector to go back in there...... still getting misfire
SO, I tried using a propane torch head and putting out gas around the intake to search for vacuum leak and got no response....... so, for the heck of it, I went old school and grabbed a can of starting fluid and started spraying it on the intake around where it bolts to head... bam... found a vacuum leak on #2 cyl....... ordered an intake gasket off of ebay, spent about 3 hours on it pulling the intake and replacing the gasket,( the bolts had loosened up over time and there were small tears in the gasket allowing it to suck air) .. put the new gasket on, cleared the codes and it's been running perfect ever since.
Check for a vacuum leak where the intake manifold bolts to the head... might save time and money.
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I guess misfires are a rite of passage for these vehicles. I purchased it only a week ago. Welcome to Hyundai...
The car has 53k kms. It's throwing P0300 and P030X on all cylinders. There was one instance of P0128. The engine runs smoothly and doesn't seem to down on power, although I have nothing to compare it to. The only performance issue is that it acts as if there is a rev limiter at 6k rpm. It sputters and stops pulling above 6k. Strangely, it doesn't throw the codes under load. The light flashes while it's running steady-state.
I pulled the plugs and they appeared to be in excellent condition with no erosion of the electrodes. The ash is slightly more white than I would expect, making me wonder about it being excessively lean. I called the dealer. They told me that coils are problematic. Replacing the coils made no difference.
That lead me here. I found the thread "Check engine light flashes then stays solid," which referenced the ECM update.
Interestingly, of the codes mentioned on the TSB, the car is having all but the last two.
- P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected.
- P0301: Cylinder 1 - Misfire Detected.
- P0302: Cylinder 2 - Misfire Detected.
- P0303: Cylinder 3 - Misfire Detected.
- P0304: Cylinder 4 - Misfire Detected.
- P0128: Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature).
- P0328: Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input.
- P0461: Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
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I have a 1999.5 Jetta VR6 12v, last week the car would not start. After some tests I determined the coil pack had gone bad. Replaced the Coil with a brand New aftermarket German made coil. Now 1 week later, driving at highway speed CEL came on, started to flash and obviously misfiring again. Ran Codes and now im getting these DTC's:
1)random multiple cylinder misfire detected p0300
2) cylinder 4 misfire detected p0304
3) ignition coil output 3 electric malfunction p1395
4) cylinder 3 misfire detected p0303
has this new coil gone bad already after a week?
New issue?
Plugs were replaced less than a year ago, wires were apparently replaced by previous owner about 2 years ago now. Crank sensor replaced less than a week ago...
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I have a '06 Passat 3.6. I had the intake and valve cover off the other day and when I put it back together it started missing bad. The code it is throwing is a P0300/ random/multiple engine cylinder misfire. What is wrong?
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My buddy has a 2010 tiguan and hes having a misfire issue. It has a hesitation and the interior lights seem to dim with the hesitation. Heres the codes that pulled up with vagcom.
4 Faults Found:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 000 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 148426 km
[Code] ....
What it might be?
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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I was driving along and the engine started missing really bad. The whole car was bouncing around. At first I thought I had a flat, but when I stopped I noticed it was the engine. I checked the error codes and got 16684 and 16686 --- Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire.
I had a problem recently with the vacuum hose broken and was causing an error code. Replace the hoses and it has been fine. Checked to make sure that the hoses were secure and they are fine. Doesn't seem to me to be related. So many problems for a car with 57,500 miles
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I was driving the car normal with no problem. Got to a red light stop an as I was coming out of the red light the car started to hesitate a bit. So I start to drive home as I was driving home my check engine start to blink and then it stay on. When I got home and park the car I shut off ,then start it up again then the check engine light was off but the hesitation was still there. Then I got my computer and got the vagcom and got this code :
16684-random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0300-008- implausible signal
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