My 1993 Mustang GT 5.0 will not go in to 2nd gear. It's the AOD and it goes into 1st, 3rd and OD just fine. I've heard there a pressure bolt that set the pressure in the trans and that it may be why I can't go into 2nd. And I've also heard that my TV cable may be stretched.
View 1 Replies1993 5.0 mustang. The car wil start but will not stay idling. if the accelerator is gunned, it will run. The car has been tuned up (cap, rotor, plugs, air & fuel filter, also oil and filter). We thought maybe the fuel was old as it had been sitting for a few months so we drained out the old fuel and put in some fresh gas...Still the same issue. Got ahold of a fuel pressure tester from the loaner program at Autozone. The guy behind the counter looked up the spec and said it should be between 35 and 40 PSI. After putting the gauge on the Mustang, we got a reading of 30 PSI. Would this reading cause the current issue? Is a new fuel pump in this car's future?
View 7 RepliesI recently had the clutch replaced in my son's 2003 Mustang and when I got it back it had a vibration in 5th gear at 60mph and in almost every gear when you let off the gas and decelerate while it is still engaged. It levels off an then as the car starts to slow down because of the engine and I get a vibration that feels as if is coming from underneath the car. I had them turn the drive shaft 180 degrees but no change. As an example, in 3rd gear while decelerating with the clutch engaged the vibration comes in about 40mph. If you disengage the clutch all vibration ceases.
View 3 RepliesSo I just put a new clutch in my 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l engine and a 5 speed T5OD transmission. The car will shift through all gears fine when turned off, but when I start it in neutral and push the clutch in, it won't shift into any gear. I can start it in first gear though with the clutch pedal in and it moves forward VERY slowly. The trans has enough fluid, and I already pulled up on the pedal to self adjust. Not exactly sure what else could be wrong.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 Mustang (manual 5 speed) that recently has been having a problem getting into 1st gear
Symptoms:1. When the engine is cold, there is no issue getting the car into gear2. Once it warms up (after approx. 20 miles or 30 minutes driving), it is very difficult to get into 1st gear. I have to put it in 2nd then get it to slip into 1st.3. On hot days the problem starts sooner and is hard to get into the other gears4. when the car has warmed up on a cool day. I can get the car into the other gears (2nd, etc) when standing still, but first is almost impossible
Originally the problem showed up when my wife drove the car, but it is getting worse. Why the engine and/or outside temperature would affect how my I can get my car into gear?
This is on an 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l and a T5OD tranny. I installed a new clutch and now when the car is on, it won't shift into any gear. But I can start the car in gear and let go of the clutch and it moves forward just fine. I took everything back apart and checked the clutch plate and it is in there correctly. The clutch fork is completely on the little pivot ball.
The throw out bearing is the same size and everything as the old one. I pulled up on the clutch pedal to self adjust. Still not going into gear when the car is on.
I have heard that I might have air in my clutch line. But this clutch is cable actuated, not hydraulic. I have no master cylinder. Like I said before, I already pulled up on the clutch to self adjust and still no luck.
I have a 2003 Mach 1 Mustang, ( 4.6 DOHC 32 Valve)....
When I start my car in the morning. Idling the car sounds normal and perfect with my SLP exhaust. But when I start to go on my merry way, when I’m in 1st and 2nd gear and I accelerate past about 2.8K rpm's. I hear a really quite noticeable pingy/tingy sounds from my engine (Yes sounding like that annoying AMMCO commercial with people making noises). This will continue for a little while when i get into my normal running temperature, the sound isn’t as "Loud" so to say but still present.
I can comfortably say that there is nothing loose within the engine compartment. My spark plugs are tightened to the proper amount. I experience no performance lost as well. This has just been a nuisance since I have purchased the car, it currently has almost 60k mileage and has followed the proper maintenance.
I have a 93 explorer it ran fine then when I drove it today it stalled put it in park it started but wont go into gear when shifted?
View 1 RepliesI went to put the van in park, and the gear shifter just went all floppy in my hand. I was able to wiggle/jostle it around and get it into neutral or drive, but nothing else. Tow truck driver crawled under the van, and put it into drive for me, and told me it was probably just going to need a new cable or link shaft (tube shaped thing)... My hubby usually fixes these things, but is now living 1700 miles away.
Anyway, the shop called me and said I needed a new steering column, and said something about the 'lower' cap or half??? He quoted me $340 for the job. I am not getting the connection between the gear shifter being loose/floppy and the steering column needing to be replaced? Is this right?
It is a 1993 Aerostar, 3.0 by the way...
A friend of mine at work has a 93 4wd explorer. A4ld transmission. Reverse quit working, and no matter what gear you put it in, reverse, neutral, or park, it will stay in drive. Park holds itself, but if you give it gas, it tries to pull. He says when it's in reverse, it's almost like it's stuck in reverse and forward, it wants to rock. He pulled the pan, no metal shavings, and pulled the valve body. He said the screws holding the valve body were finger tight. The gasket underneath had a small tear in it, he doesn't know if he did this pulling it out or not. He replaced those gaskets and retorqued the valve body. When he put it in reverse and topped off fluid, reverse worked. He put it in drive and it worked, but when he put it back in reverse, it stayed in drive and is staying in drive in all gear selections again. He bought this explorer new, and the transmission had never been into before.
View 3 RepliesNot only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
View 3 RepliesI have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. After I start my car up with my foot on the brake it won't shift into gear from park. But if I pump the brakes a few times it will then go into gear. What is wrong with my car?
View 7 RepliesI have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
View 6 RepliesEither one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
A friend has a 1993 4x4 Z71 automatic that has lost 2nd gear. He has drained the fluid and it does not smell burnt and color is fine. He does notice what seems like dust in it but it has no texture when try to feel the dust. The fluid did seem to have some sludge like gunk in bottom of container He drained it into.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1993 4WD Toyota extended cab pickup with 200,000 miles on it that is getting hard to shift into first gear. I have to double/triple clutch run through the gears to get it to shift into first. It is not hard to shift all the time but the issue is getting more and more frequent.
View 7 RepliesI drive a '93 Toyota T100 with a manual transmission. Up until recently things were going great but I've noticed it is damn near impossible to shift from reverse back into first gear when I'm pulling out of my driveway. I've also found that shifting from first gear to second has become more difficult as well though not impossible. However if I'm shifting to third, fourth, or fifth gears I don't have any problem whatsoever. I had the transmission redone about a year ago after the clutch gave out so I'm hoping its not that.
View 9 RepliesI have problem that I've noticed since I bought my Saab 900 equipped with the automatic transmission and am finally deciding to try to address it. Just to clarify, I've cleaned the filter, changed the fluid multiple times to freshen the ATF in the torque converter and it shifts really nicely, actually. The motor is smooth as silk, too. Here's my problem: with the shifter in "D" at a stop sign or cross walk, and my foot on the brake pedal, the car vibrates strongly. In fact, it's even popped my hood open on a couple occasions. However, if it's idling in "P" there's no vibrations that are out of the ordinary and it holds nicely to 900 RPM either way (I have recently cleaned the IAC valve).
Suspecting my brakes weren't grabbing well, I recently replaced the accumulator on my ABS system and had the fluid flushed and refilled at a trusted independent import shop. It brakes great, so I don't suspect it's the brakes. Since the transmission, motor and brakes are great, I can only suspect the motor or transmission mounts, but that doesn't explain to me why the problem would occur at specific times only.
I was recently driving my 1993 Volvo 240 wagon over the Bourne Bridge in bumper to bumper traffic (surprise!). Traffic was moving at 3-5 mph as I navigated the rotary and ascended the bridge. Needless to say, I was developing leg cramps as traffic crawled up the steep bridge incline. Once I crested the hill, I shifted to neutral (still 3-5mph to coast down the decline and give my leg a rest. After coasting for a few minutes I attempted to shift into second gear to re-engage the transmission.
I was unable to slip the gear shift stick into any gear! I continued to make sure that I was depressing the clutch all the way to the floor, but still could not muscle the stick into a single gear (by the way, I never smelled that "burning clutch smell"). After about a minute or more of mental disaster planning, I finally coerced the shift into third gear. A minute or so later, I was able to shift into second gear which got me around the accident causing the delay and onto the highway. From that point on, I was able to shift normally for the remainder of the 2 hour trip. What happened and what could I have done to solve the problem? (The car is now at the repair shop where they are equally perplexed).
Replaced both MC & slave. Replaced fluid and and hose. Everything worked fine foe a few days and then back to square one. Clutch lost pressure and cannot get car in gear.
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