1992 Ford Mustang Won't Start - Got One Click When Tried To Crank
Mar 17, 2014
1992 Ford Mustang 5 spd 2.3l 4 cylinder. So a couple weeks ago, i got into my car and tried to crank it. I got one click then nothing. That's what I get whenever i turn the key. Not the repetitive clicking when the battery is low. After I found another ride home, I did some research and determined that it was probably the starter solenoid. I took a trip to Autozone and replaced the solenoid, but when i tried to crank it, one click then nothing. In order to get my car out of the school parking lot, I popped the clutch and got it running. Now, I'm stuck as to what the problem could be. I'm thinking it might be the starter itself, but it might also be the ignition switch.
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Car had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there's a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won't start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on.
Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I'm not sure if it's faulty or not, things don't add up. I didn't dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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My sc400 won't start it make a little click noise when I turn key the lights work but it don't crank how to fix for cheap??
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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My 92 f250 5.8l 5 speed, out of no where when I try to start it I get absolutely nothing, when I put the key in the on position and short the solenoid it starts up that's how I've been starting it? When I try to start it regularly it's almost as if trying to start it without pressing the clutch it literally does nothing.
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I have a 2006 Sonata v6 with about 140k. The other day, I tired starting the car and I heard a "click" but no cranking. (For definitions, a click is a single staccato sound "kuh"; cranking would be the sound of the engine trying to start and just not able to make it "kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh"). I thought maybe I wasn't in park, so I jiggled the gear shift a little and then it started. I'm not sure I actually did anything, but it started and I figured it was a once and only problem. Well, I had the problem again tonight. In Park and Neutral I get a click. In Reverse and Drive, I get nothing. So it seems like Park is recognized. The battery is fully charged, but for god measure, I charged it anyway. Nothing unusual about the weather - 50s and dry. The car is parked on flat ground. I didn't just fill up. I can't think of anything different that I'm doing.
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I have a 1992 ford mustang 4 cylinder,its messed up bad.my car is shaking bad all the time and will not go faster than 40mph.what is wrong??
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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2008 Azera with 90K miles won't start or crank. Unhooked battery and hooked it back up--no joy. No lights on the dash--absolute silence when turning the key. Doors and trunk won't auto-unlock. Can't get it into neutral to move it so I can try to jump it. Almost like it has some kind of kill switch.
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Cranks strong, I have fuel to the rail, 12V at the injectors and spark. Have changed crank sensor and 2 relays?
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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I first thought my issue might be the ignition switch or maybe the neutral safety switch but through some info I've come to realize that my issue appears to be from the anti theft system. I did a test where I turned key to start and backed off to run and then leave car for 10 minutes. I did this 3 times and it was supposed to go around the security system and then try to start but it didn't. I went through two trials with the same result. On the first of 3 times in each of the two trials the security light was not on but the 2nd and 3rd times it stayed on. I've heard this problem can be nearly impossible to trace and repair.
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My friend (yes, really, a friend, not me) parked her 2004 Dodge Caravan in the driveway the evening before. The next morning it would not start. No crank, no grind, no click, and no dash lights, nada, nothing. She took it to the shop she's taken the car to for years for repair and maintenance. She trusts them. They've replaced the battery and run a full diagnostic on it, but are unable to solve the problem. The shop is telling them her it could run into the thousands just to figure out the problem. What could they be missing?
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2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
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2002 explorer 4.0l. No crank just click new starter in and cables hooked to battery...
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My son has a 2001 explorer sport that he keeps at college. The vehicle sits alot more than it runs these days. Recently it some times does not want to start, no click when you turn the key. He got it home today, and after I changed oil, it would not start. I have no ground to the starter relay in the power distribution box.
I have no electrical schematics, where the ground for the starter relay comes from ? If I remove the relay and run jumper wires from the box to the relay, i can make the vehicle crank when i apply another ground source to the relay....but it just cranks, will not start.
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I work for the transportation department at a school and we have a bunch of 6.0 f350/450 busses and this bus I am working on has a no crank condition. Bus in question is a 2006 F450 6.0.
Currently if you turn the key to start the engine the solenoid just clicks but the engine wont crank. The person working on it before me assumed that the batteries and or starter were bad so they were replaced(0 miles on them right now) but the problem still persists.
First thing I did when I started working on this bus was jumping the starter relay and the starter engages and starts the engine perfectly. That being said I know the starter wiring is fine.
Secondly I looked through the wiring diagrams and saw that the PCM grounds the 85 terminal on the starter relay so I tried grounding the 85 and I was able to crank the engine with the key so that was telling me that the actual starter relay is fine. Next I went and swapped the PCM with another 2006 f450 thinking maybe the grounding switch in the PCM was bad and I have the same no crank condition. The PCM from the bus in question was swapped to the doner bus and it cranked perfectly(PCM in question is fine).
Next thing I did was look up all of the ground locations for the PCM or anything to do with the starter and they were all cleaned and still have the same no crank.
Looking around on the internet I see that the viscous fan can cause a problem if it shorts out so I unplugged that and no change in the no crank. I also saw that the trans range sensor could cause a no crank condition but I am getting back up lights/beeper and the bus "wants" to crank so I am thinking that the TRS is not the problem.
Lastly I tried hooking my Modis scanner up to this bus and was NOT able to communicate with either of the PCM's I tried. Not sure if this is related to my no crank condition. I checked all of the wiring that I could but could not find any chafing or breaks in any of the OBDII wiring. My planned next step is to replace the TRS...
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back story but may have nothing to do with problem. battery terminal bolts were rusted solid so i cut them off and replaced. truck stated fine the last time i started it before doing this.
I turn key and get a single click. i tried jumping 2 large poles on fender solenoid and still one click no crank. i had taken off the starter and autozone tested and it passed. i checked voltages everywhere i could think of and all were as to be expected.
could it be the starter even though it passed?
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