I have replaced my trans and now I have a problem with it going into fall safe mode. I was told it was to do with a sensor on the transfer case. Could this be my problem? I can turn the truck off and turn it back on and it will shift out, but when I stop and start to take off it goes back into the fall safe mode, staying in high gear.
View 4 RepliesMy auto tranny goes into "safe" mode every so often. It thinks there is something wrong and stays in third gear. The d4 indicator stays on even if another gear is selected (it's indicator light is on too). I changed the fluid (clear, red - in fine condition).
View 14 RepliesWhere I live people on the highway accelerate quickly. I try to stay in the EV range up to 15 mph but, when I do someone is up my rear end.
However, when I accelerate manually in EV mode I can accelerate up to 25 mph with the flow of traffic.
My concern with repeatedly accelerating up 25 mph in EV mode will be harder ( lessen the life ) on the battery or the transmission or the electric motors.
I'm guessing it's safe for the electric motors and the transmission because the plug in prius can accelerate up to 62 mph and it's fine.
However th
So is it 100% safe for the car to repeatedly accelerate out of EV mode?
I got a 99 B.5 Passat..
a couple days ago.. I put water into the car cause the light came on. The next day the check engine light appeared. I drove the car and parked it for a few hours..
When I went back into the car the check engine light still appeared.. And not only that it went into SAFE MODE with all lights highlighted... PRND432..
So this happens fairly regularly. only during part throttle, cruising, the acceleration and rpm will dip and fall for a second, then comes back. if i let off the gas when it happens and get back on it, it comes back sooner. about a year ago i got TPS CEL, changed the APS but it didn't fix anything.
Weird thing is, when using cruise i don't see it. at least it's not nearly as noticeable. I had some idle and misfire issues recently and found a broken coil the culprit. changed that out and fixed those issues.
What would cause this issue when using the pedal but not the cruise? I think it has something to do with the accelerator pedal sensor...i do notice the throttle cable going to the APS has a small nut on it and it looks like it can be adjusted, would that cause this issue? research says TPS doesn't fail....
I have a 2009 SX4 Crossover, which came with a Garmin nuvi 760 ... but which has been customized for Suzuki. I actually already own a "real" Garmin nuvi that we've been using in our other vehicles, so the Suzuki customizations are fairly obvious to me.
For the most part, they are welcome value-adds over a standard Garmin nuvi 760, with one very annoying exception ... and that is the mandatory "Safe Mode".
Suzuki has apparently decided for me that I must always have Safe Mode enabled, by removing the enable/disable option for this in the Suzuki version. A "real" nuvi 760 (and for that matter all other real Garmin nuvis with Safe Mode) has a Safe Mode enable/disable toggle button on the Security settings panel; and that has been removed from this panel in the Suzuki version.
While I understand the safety issues involved with a driver trying to use certain features while the car is moving, did Suzuki forget that they also install a passenger seat up front as well; and that maybe me or my wife, while in the passenger seat, might be trying to look up some location information for us while we are driving through an unfamiliar place looking for things? The only way to get out of Safe Mode is to pull the car over somewhere and stop ... very inconvenient, especially in congested city traffic. This has happened to us a number of times now, and is really getting old.
So I'm just wondering if any way to disable Safe Mode on the Suzuki version of the nuvi 760? Or, what I am actually hoping is that the option to turn toggle it on/off really is still there but just hidden, and that maybe there is a way to un-hide it ...
I had to do some work on the car which required disconnecting the battery, Usually the radio goes into safe mode which I unlock using the 4 digit code. However this time i entered the wrong code and the radio went into 02 safe mode?? Now the radio is not responding at all to any inputs from the buttons, its literally locked. I have disconnected the battery again and left it for a bit hoping it would clear it but no luck it still says 02 safe and I can't enter the code to unlock it.
View 5 RepliesIs it safe to rev the engine while in inspection mode (forced idle). Someone has a question about checking for valve noise in the top thread about common 2G problems in the maintenance discussion, and I unsure about giving advice concerning revving the engine via the throttle motor. I will mention, I suppose, the check engine light will turn on.
View 3 RepliesI unhooked the battery for about an hour. I hooked it back up. I started the car put the selector into drive. CLUNK. Disengaged the parking brake. Drove. It turns out when I shifted to D it went straight to third and stayed there. I turned off the car, restarted it. Still stuck in third. Drove a few miles. Restarted it. No more issues. My guess the tranny went into safe mode, but why?
View 3 RepliesHow to bypass the safe mode feature of the navigation unit? I've found bypass modules on the internet that go for around 200 but was wondering if there's an alternative method that would possibly be DIY and very low cost?
View 2 Replies2014.5 Camry XLE
I've changed the clock for DST, but the navigation system did not fall back an hour. A trip of any length adds an hour. i.e. 30 minutes is shown as an ETA of 90.
2001 Accent, 1.5L Automatic with OD, 263,000 km
Transmission goes into Fail Safe Mode but the CEL does not light up and code reader shows no codes. Shifts fine in town,1-2-3-4...4-3-2-1, but on highway when going up inclines (steep), transmission downshifts from Overdrive into 3rd,as i press the accelerator it will downshift into 2nd (as normal), until i reach the top of the incline (3500-4000 rpm) but then as the car levels out on the highway, it will shift back and forth between overdrive and 3rd, (jerky shifting) then finally goes into Fail safe mode, 3000 rpm at 80-90 km/h. Once I shut the car off for a few minutes, the transmission is fine and shifts normally. Fluid levels are good. Why the CEL is not giving code?
There had been a lot of discussion about the engine light coming on and the Engine fail safe mode. A lot of folks said the dealer could not fix it. It happened to me and my dealer fixed it. This is what the dealer did to correct the problem
EEC Tested
Code P2106
Disconnected all wheel speed sensors and reprogramed PCM per SSM 17272 and Ford Hotline
No more problems.....
I was driving down a road tonight and my entire truck shut down, and it said engine safe mode. I lost all power steering and gas, all I had were breaks and electronics. What does that mean?
View 1 RepliesI was driving at 40 -30 mph on a dark street and rammed through a bit of water ( maybe 4" high and 6 feet across). So right after i got these tranny codes and my tranny went to safe mode kicking hard when shifting:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1783
Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0712
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Input Low
P1702
Transmission Concern
Luckily I was a block away from home. So i assumed all those sensors shorted with water ( I thought they were all water proof...hmm) so i let them dry.
So the codes went away and the truck seamed fine for 2 weeks until i felt the tranny kicking again into gears yesterday. So today i went on a test drive and it was fine at first until it went into safe mode again with only 2 codes:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1702
Transmission Concern
So, that means the other sensors dried out and i destroyed the TRS? and if so would it malfunctioning cause the tranny to go into safe mode or could there be some other issue?
2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
This morning I was playing around with my 2010 Prius "B" mode - I realize today that when the Prius CVT is in "B" mode the Prius ICE won't turn off even when it is at a complete stop -- instead the ICE runs/idles at a 996 RPM / .20-.40 GPH while stopped in traffic. The coolant temperature (@190F ) doesn't matter, Battery State of Charge (54% soc) doesn't matter. To re-enable the stop-start idle technology - I had to switch the Prius CVT back to "D" mode. I end up burning a bit more fuel on this trip because it took me a while to realize that I was in "B" mode and that the stop start idle technology had disabled in the "B" mode ...
View 4 RepliesNew 2015 PIP, got it 2 months ago, and it drove fine till Thursday, when this message came up. I believe I first got a "Charge interrupted due to malfunction" and then the dreaded "Check Hybrid System, Stop the vehicle in a safe place." alert with all the engine lights on.
Took it to the dealer and they charge it up, cleared the message, and gave it back. They told me it was because I shared the car's outlet with something else, and then threatened to charge me money if I came back because it was my fault. Took it home, charged it exactly the way they told me to, and this morning the error message came back up. Going to take it in to the dealer tomorrow.
Having that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI own a 2004 Prius II. It has 140,000 miles on . I've changed the 12 volt battery last year and that has been the worst of isuues. However, my alarm has been going off after I get out of my car after driving it and it won't stop
untill I put the key FOB back in the slot and start the the car up. I have to leave the key FOB in the slot all night to stop it from going off all night long. I changed key FOBs and thought I had fixed the issue but after a long drive I came home got out of car and its started again. I have the other posts on this subject and tried all of the fixes except disconnecting the alarm Will try and take it to a dealership but not confident they can fix it.
I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with a few miles on it.(217,734) The A.C. works great while it is on, but it will stop working then start back up. Out of frustration I will turn it off and on until it starts up again. It will run for a little bit then cut out again and I repeat the process. I have switched out the relays and checked the belts, all is well there. What could be the problem?
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