Mitsubishi - Montero :: 2002 - Transmission Slipping Infrequently
Aug 28, 2011
I own a 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. I purchased the car 2 years ago, it appeared to be maintained well as it was like a new car and it has been running like dream car until now. I noticed what I believe to be a slipping transmission at the beginning of summer. It happened infrequently but still worries me nonetheless.
I get in my car early in the morning, drive down an alleyway and turn onto a side street, then I come to complete stop at the main street. I see no traffic and push on the accelerator to go and nothing happens for about 10-20 seconds, then it seems to catch, and I head on my merry way to work. Occasionally, it will start to go (just enough to coast me into traffic in a dangerous position) and then cut out and then catch again after the 10-20 seconds. If it happens, it is only at that moment in the day and no other.
I thought maybe it could be from sitting for awhile, but the car actually sits longer at work than at home. (I work too much. Local truck driver...) Whether this is of significance or not, it did not occur during the hottest few weeks of the summer, but other than that, it appears the transmission slips about 2-3 times per week. Could the colder morning temperatures affect anything? Could it be some sort of sediment stirred up in the morning that is clogging the filter?
I was thinking of taking it to the shop and getting it drained and the filter replaced. Would that most likely alleviate the problem?
The vehicle currently has 113,270 miles on it and I am not sure if the transmission fluid has ever been changed as I bought it used at a dealership.
I was reading [URL] and it said, "The old fluid was gritty due to metal shavings caused by normal internal wear and tear on the transmission clutches and was acting like liquid sandpaper. This "sandpaper" was producing the friction needed for the transmission to pull itself. When we changed the filter and replaced the old fluid with new fluid, the clutches inside the transmission had nothing to grab on to." Is this something I seriously need to be concerned about?
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My 1998 Mitsu Montero Sport (2-wheel drive)has an automatic trans with L-2-D options. You can manually start in "Low" and go to "2" and then to "Drive, or just drive in D as usual. It also has an AT button for (auto traction) and a button for overdrive mode. PROBLEM: The car stopped shifting properly in the Drive mode. Intermittently it does not shift down to low, so I have to manually shift to Low and then to 2 or drive, etc. Everything else works fine except occaissionally in the Drive mode. I was told the "Check Engine" error was to replace the Transmission solenoids.
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2002 Montero sport 3.5V6 , Miles: 130,000. Bought recently drove home over 2 hour drive no issues, Recent work: Timing belt (preemptive). All Serpentine belts, PCV valve (after timing belt job I noticed oil in exhaust)It gave a P0506 code and idling at 500 rpm after the timing belt job, found some oil in exhaust. Got the PCV valve replaced. That solved the oil in exhaust issue, but the code has come back. Drives ok, no issues, no smoke.I am going to clean the throttle body and install new air filter, today and take it on a highway drive (clean oil residue from cat). I had the timing belt work done at a very trusted place, but this time their game was not so good. Boss on vacation, new location and their work was somewhat careless not their usual style.
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2002 Mitsubishi Montero Limited V6 ... Occasionally while slowing from 15 miles per hour to 5 miles per hour, i'll hear a vibrating sound coming out of the engine area like a gear trying to catch and then when i slow to 5 miles per hour, i hear a snap like it just caught or snapped into place and fixed itself. The car drives fine while this is happening, and at all other times. I have 125K miles on it and it has been well maintained. Originally i thought the sound was coming from the front right tire area and had the brakes and shocks/struts checked... The sound could be more centrally located though. What is that?
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We have a 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero (not sure the current equivalent in US, it used to be the Montero but I think they have since discontinued it). It's a great car. One rather annoying issue we are having with it at the moment...
The radio changes volume by itself. It goes up, it goes down, all on it's own without any input from us. Here are some observations:
- Only happens when the car is in motion, at a stand-still it is fine.
- Only happens when listening to radio, not CD player or DVD player.
The car does not have a "knob" for the volume, it is just buttons (rules out potentiometer thingy)
There are steering wheel controls, but the fact that the volume changes only happen when listening to the radio, and not CD, make me believe it's not those. Same with speed-sensitive volume controls. We have turned those off in the settings and it still does the same. Even with them on or off, the CD volume works as expected.
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Replaced battery and, when I did, the alarm went off. Tried to start suv while alarm going and totally dead. So I hit the remote to stop alarm and it still won't start or even turn over now. It barely turned over with old battery, but at least turned over, but after alarm, no clicking, no nothing.
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Once in a while, the car won't even attempt to start. All you hear is a click, then one or two more tries and the car starts. When idling the knocking can be heard, or when I push the gas the knock can be heard. I was once told it could be that the spark plugs are going bad and it is causing an issue with the pistons. Every so often the knocking will go away completely. Also with the car not starting it is not like you hear the car try to start, it is just a click and nothing else.
Mitsubishi/Montero Sport 3.0 L 2003 .....
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While driving my Montero sport last week, I began smelling a burning rubber smell from the air vents. At the same time I noticed, on the dashboard, that both the brake, and, battery indicators had lit up. There was no smoke, mist, or off sounds, coming from the engine, and, the engine seemed to be running no differently than before this occurred. I drove home, parked the car for 5 days, and, yesterday visually inspected what I could see, which was almost nothing unusual. I started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes in park.
The engine ran normal, no noticeable knocks or pings, no shaking of the engine, the belts ran smooth, no noticeable leaks of any kind. I checked all fluids and they were at normal levels, only the power steering showed a slightly lower than mid level of fluid, not anywhere near low.line. But, as soon as I started the engine, the dashboard indicators lit up and stayed on. There was only a very faint smell of rubber at the end of the 10 minute running of the engine, barely noticeable. The only thing that I did different recently was about 2 weeks ago I added a quart Pennzoil high mileage motor oil 5-30 instead of the usual GTX high mileage motor oil 5-30 that I usually put in the engine, as there was none available at the store. The auto has ran very well for the past year.
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there's a noise that sounds like a seagull coming from under the hood near the steering wheel. Turns out it's the vacuum brake accumulator & there was a recall on this. Unfortunately I had the part replaced back in 02, so Montero won't fix it a second time. I only use the vehicle on the weekends & didn't see any reduction in the brake performance so I put the repair off. That was over a year ago. How important is it to fix this? Other than the really odd noise there doesn't seem to be an issue.... I'm just trying to decide the future of my truck since the transfer case is gone & I can't use 4wd or AWD and more. That's been broken & flashing about a year too.. On top of that the AC is broken & now there's a light tapping noise whenever the car is in gear, but not in park.. I really love my truck but am losing hope. Everyone says it's not worth fixing. 140,000 miles.
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While driving at highway speeds the "n" light on the gear shift starts flashing. This indicates that the automatic transmission is overheating, and that I should pull over to let it cool per the owners manual and a sticker on the drivers door. Which I do - I let it sit for about 5 mins and its ready to go again. However, this is inconvenient and has happened on numerous occasions. I have search all over the internet for a solution, and the only thing that seems to be the solution is to get a bigger pan?
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My lights, headlamps and interior lights, are going from normal to slightly dim in a rapid sequence. They pulse from normal to slightly dim. What could be causing this?
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Have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
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I own a 1987 Mitsubishi Montero 2-door, 4x4, vin # JA7FJ23F9HJO30272 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's powered by a family 2.6 T2FFC3 engine with CID 1.55.987.
My problem occurs quite sporadically, sometimes after driving 100 miles or so. Then, the engine starts missing as if you were turning the ignition off and on very quickly. Most often I have to limp back home by getting spurts of acceleration along with skipping.
Some technicians say the bushings are worn out in the distributors shaft housing and some other technicians state it may be a carburation problem. However, I am desperate for a solution to solve my problem, and possibly better my fuel economy to more than 12+/- miles per gallon.
Is this a common problem of these vehicles with high mileage? Do you have a solution to resolve my problem? My vehicle has 132,059 miles as of this writing.
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I have a mysterious exhaust issue on my 1991 Montero. After the engine warms up and I have been stopped at a red light for a minute or so when I accelerate away from the light a cloud of blue (I assume oil) smoke puffs out of the exhaust pipe. If I sit in the vehicle with it idling for, say, 5 minutes then the cloud of blue smoke can last all the way down the block. Then it goes away. Spark plugs are all clean. PCV valve recently replaced. Mo warning lights. What can this be?
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I have a 2002 lancer. Here is my problem which has been occurring for the past 4 years: Transmission? When in stop and go traffic it feels like it is reving very high. Sometimes it feels like it gets stuck in a gear because it doesn?t accelerate at the moment the gas is being pushed and then it thrusts forward. When stopped completely the rpm varies between the 1 and 2. When stopped in traffic, when the brake is applied, sometimes you can feel the car wanting to thrust forward, and you have to hold your foot on the brake very firmly/hard. Maybe twice in the past 2 or 3 years, it has thrust forwarded while I thought i had my foot on the brake, but maybe I just needed to push super harder thna I was. When put in park it the rpm is usually at the 2 maybe 3, so when put in park it suddenly feels like the gear is very high...
When the car is turned off, it shakes and seems like it was thrown out of gear. The engine always feels very very warm after all this happens. I have mentioned this to a couple of mechanics, but they never take it seriously, and thus never find a problem. When they drive it, it does not exhibit the problem, because it only happens in stop and go traffic, and or when it has been running/driven around for a long time.
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2002 vw Jetta sportwagon automatic trans, 151k, no previous issue with the transmission like this. the new issue is that the transmission is slipping at 20mph. what I would guess is 2nd to 3rd (3rd-drive)gear, the transmission "slips" and over revs, I take my foot off the gas and it engages.
I have no more issue accelerating after that. it only happens at exactly (on the speedo) 20mph. hopefully it is only a transmission fluid issue.
As a sidenote. my car will periodically lose power when the engine is cold with no rhyme or reason. the car power drops (on a flat or an incline) for about 2sec then back to normal. its been happening for a year or so.
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I just got my transmission replaced with a used transmission. Ever since we got it, it had been occasionally slipping on 2nd to 3rd. I thought it was most likely just adjusting to the new car as it started to get a little better, but it got worse. On the way back from McDonald's, about 3 miles, I stopped 4 times and it happened every time. It mostly only happens when it's at or below 2 rpm but it's happened once above it. The rest of the gears shift nicer than they have before and 2nd to 3rd can be the same way just not all the time. I plan on taking it back on Monday. Is there already a new problem with this transmission?
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I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic with about 167,000 original miles, I had my transmission rebuild about two months ago. Two things happened after: 1. The engine started to heat up. 2. Started to loose coolant for no reason. Well, after adding and driving for 8 weeks it stop losing coolant and cool to normal. Today I got a surprise on my way to school and work. It has started to over heat and the transmission is slipping on the 3rd gear. I do drive about 100 miles every day as I commute to work.
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I have an automatic gti/337 , on friday my transmission started slipping , while I would be driving on D the rpm would rev like crazy as if it was on N, I had to decelerate then accelerate in order for it to work. anyways i changed the transmission fluid and still having the same problem.
Ill be taking it to a mechanic tomorrow, but what to expect tomorrow? Its a 2002 two doors gti/337 ...
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I have a 2002 1.8T tiptronic with around 150k Kms. Recently, the transmission has started slipping, more so when at running temperature than when cold. It feels like when a certain amount of gas is applied is when it starts slipping. It can slip immediately after 3-4 and 4-5 with continued acceleration, or will constantly slip while in 5th if trying to drive at speeds greater than 90 km/h (with very gradual acceleration to that point).
Does this sound like a clutch wear issue requiring a new transmission, or more like a valve body issue?
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