Hyundai - Santafe :: 2007 - While Approaching To Stop Engine Stalls And Shut Off Intermittently
Jun 14, 2014
After driving the vehicle on the highway (30+ minutes at 65+ mph), exiting highway on an exit ramp and coming to a stop (at stop sign or traffic light), the engine will sometimes stall and shut off. Immediately thereafter, vehicle can be restarted and driven. There are no other symptoms, abnormal sounds, vibrations, etc.
I thought problem might be caused by vapor lock. However, Hyundai dealer service center checked fuel pump, fuel lines and vacuum hoses, etc. but can not duplicate, identify or repair problem.
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my friends Hyundai Santa-FE 2007 makes a knocking noise like a hammer hitting the engine when she starts the car and drives. What could that be?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Runs great, except for the last two months, every time I fill it with gas, it tries to stall out when I start it. Once I get it running for a minute or so, it is fine until the next time I fill it with gas. Tried filling it with premium gas a few times to see if that made a difference...it didn't. Took it to my mechanic; he said the car was fine. This only happens at the gas pump and no other time.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with 108k miles on it that seems to have an attitude problem. I was driving home from a Christmas get together on the highway, when my engine stalled, hiccuped, stopped and the check engine light came on. When I tried restarting the car, the engine wouldn't fire. The battery was fine, and I had a half tank of gas. After about 15 minutes of sitting, I was able to get the car started and driving again. After about a day and a half and a refueling, the check engine light went out and the car behaved as normal until this evening.
I went to the gas station, put $15 in the tank (brought the tank up to about half), and as I was stopped waiting to pull onto the road, the engine died. No hiccuping, rough running or anything, it just plain stalled and shut off. Again, after ~15 min, it started. I turned back up the road to head home (Was going to head about 30 miles west to see a friend but decided against it), after I stopped at a stop light, it stalled out again same thing. Waited ~15 min, it started back up with the check engine light back on. (But wait there's more!) Another stoplight, another stall. This time however, it would not start at all after 30 plus minutes. By this point, my battery was pretty run down, so I managed to get a friend to give me a tow.
I have to bring it it for servicing tomorrow anyway for a completely unrelated issue, and just towed it over to the dealer.Any clue what gives or what I should make sure the dealer does?
The internet seems to want to point me towards a bad ignition coil or a bad crankshaft sensor, but my mechanically inclined friends are leaning towards an electrical issue or a problem with the fuel filter/pump/line.
The check engine code is P0335
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We have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
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In the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
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My car is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and does not want to start only after fueling. It will also die when the fuel cap is removed. There is an excessive amount of vacuum pressure released when cap is removed. The computer showed a code: P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow. Is this simply a fuel cap issue or something else?
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe. When I fill the tank (not even totally full) the car will have a fuel smell. The odd thing is that is comes more from the front part of the cabin, and only happens after filling up.
I have been very careful to make sure it is not about stepping in gasoline then getting in the car. It has been to the dealer twice for close to 3 weeks total. They smell it but cannot figure it out.
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My wife had the tires rotated on her 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe immediately before we went on a long road trip. After we left, we noticed a high-pitched whining sound at speeds of about 35-70 mph. It did not occur every time we hit that speed, and it generally seemed to go away after we'd been driving for about an hour.
We could make the noise stop every time by braking (as long as the pedal was depressed), or some of the time by turning (but only while the wheel was being turned). Occasionally, going over a particularly big bump could stop or start the noise.
My question is, what color is the car? Wait, no, my question is, is this likely to be the brakes, and if so, could it have been caused by the tire rotation?
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I bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
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My car pulling to right significantly at all speed. Alignment checked mechanic says its normar to have car goes to right. I have similar car for 10 years 140,000 miles never have this kind of pull with many tires changed and rotation of all kind. While mechanic was doing wheel alighment white brown greese / liquid came out from steering rack on right side. Mechanics says its just oil seal from steering rack oil seal. Car was pulling to right before this rack leak as well. Mechanic says need special bolts for this car to adjust some camber on this car and can make this better.
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Headlights will not go off no matter what the switch position. Can only get them off by pulling the fuses
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While driving, the ABS light came on, with what felt like the brakes. That stopped, now the ESC light comes on (or blinks), still with the brakes, or something acting against the wheels. This can happen at any speed and only happens from once a week to once every few weeks. What is going on?
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I have a 04 santa fe 2.4L 4cyl. I recently did an engine swap, old motor threw a connecting rod. I put my intake, exhaust manifold and head on it. Timed it. All new gaskets. Turn the key and it fires right up and runs great. But when you accelerate it sounds loud (almost diesel like) and doesn't shift at the right time, also while trying to cruise it will drop about 300 rpms and then come back up, then back down and up every 3 to 5 seconds. The transmission was fine when the old motor came out. The head/intake were fine also. All the vacuum lines are connected, cant hear a vacuum leak anywhere. But it keeps throwing a throttle body sensor code and it wasn't broken when the old motor went, i even swapped another used one on it and it still throws that code. I am thinking it has to be intake related.
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My 2004 Santa Fe doesn't want to start after fueling. It doesn't matter whether it was just a few dollars worth or a full fill up. After pumping the gas and recapping securely, I have to press and hold the Accelerator to get it to catch. I had the purge control valve replaced a few months ago. And my car started mourn normally for a while. However I'm back to having to push progressively harder on the gas pedal to get it to start after gassing up.
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I have a 2003 hyundai Santa Fe that has had a problem for a few years that I can not figure out, nor can the hyundai dealership. (Though they seem to only want to hook it up to a computer, which tells them that nothing is wrong.) After filling up the car with gas, the car will turn over, but will stall immediately. You can press on the gas and it will stay going, but once you take your foot off the gas it stalls. It act like when you used to flood the corroborator. It takes about 4 times of turning over the car and stalling before it runs normally.
It is a GLS 4-cyl automatic AWD.
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My (mom's) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it. We don't smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.
In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed. Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up. Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving. What to look at next?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe, about 128,000 miles on it. For the past 5 months or so, the engine simply won't start after filling with gas - and only after filling with gas. I've tried filling partially from near-empty, as well as filling full from halfway or more full...it consistently won't start up after filling with gas.
After turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but quickly quits. Lately it's had more trouble turning over at all. To get the car moving, I need to actually feed it gas with the pedal, and "simulate" idle. Even after a couple of minutes, if I let off the pedal it dies right away....as if gas just isn't getting to the engine on its own.
In order to get the car moving, I just have to keep feeding it a bit of gas while shifting to drive (and stepping on the brake), then I give more gas and let the brake go almost as if it's manual-transmission....off it goes.
Oddest thing: as soon as that happens; as soon as the car moves forward (even just to get out of the gas station), everything's back to normal. The car idles healthily at the next stop, as if nothing happened.
No check-engine light, no diagnostic codes come up with a scan. Same results on warm or cold days. Most recent maintenance on it was new spark plugs almost a year ago (doesn't seem related).
Of course, the only time it DID fire up normally after filling with gas was when I had the mechanic with me in the car!
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with about 83,000 miles. Lately it has been having issue with the rpm's going low and stalling out while I'm driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and it has not been resolved. He said it does not need a tune up and it's nothing with my fuel. I've also heard it could be a crank shaft censor but he says no. The check engine light has come on sometimes, very quickly but then goes off.. He ran the code but nothing came up. So then what's causing my car to do this?? While the car is running and I'm in park, the rpm's will go from 2 to almost 0 then back up again. While I'm driving down the road it does the same thing and sometimes it completely stalls out while I'm going about 40mph. So incredibly scary. What this could be so I can take it back and get it fixed!!!! I'm so scared to drive it but I have to get to work.
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About a year ago, I tried to top off the tank of my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Since that time, the car has been sputtering as soon as a fill up. It doesn't sputter at other times. I have heard that I may have damaged my evaporation system. I have taken it to quite a few mechanics who tried to work on the evap system, but they could not solve the problem. Is there a simple and easy way to fix this??
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the passenger seat in our 2015 hyundai santa fe sport is not power but the seat can manually adjust forward and backward and the back rest can be moved backward and forward. The seat cannot be moved up and down. It is way too low and it feels like sitting in a "pit". The dealer said to sit on a pillow but when I sit on a pillow the air bag light will not go off (so the passenger air bag is not activated). If I sit on a book, the air bag light does go off but who wants to sit on a hard book all the time. The air bag warning light does go off when I sit on the seat itself.
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