Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Air Conditioning Blowing Cold In Town And Then Warm At Highway Speed
Jun 1, 2011
I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
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The stock air conditioning system in my 2003 Echo failed abruptly last week. The air no longer blows cold when the system is turned on. I've also noticed that the engine "hum" no longer changes frequency (gets lower because of what I assume is the added load) when I turn the A/C on. I checked the fuse and it looks intact.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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2000 Echo, I noticed the other day the heat was half as warm as it should be. The blower is still moving air the same as it always has. The upper radiator hose is hot, the lower is cold. About the same temp as the air in the 30's. The line going in to the heater core and coming out are both really warm. I thought is was the thermostat so I had it replaced to day by a local shop who does good work. The problem persists with the same symptoms. The car has yet to have the high temp light come on.
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My AC has been cooling once start-up the engine and turn it on onward. After 20-30 mins of driving, cooling has been reduce and blowing seems reduced as well.
After arriving the destination, i check the engine bay and i notice the tube part going to AC valve expansion it frozen and covered by ice.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo 1.5. About a year ago the cel went off and on intermittently and I got a p0511 code. For the past few months, the light has stayed on steadily except for a 2 week period when it stayed off. When the cel is on , the car idles slightly low for about a second just after start up. When the engine is warm, it idles steadily about 400 rpm above normal idle. When the cel is not on, the idle is perfect both at start up and when the engine is warm. I did take off the IAC and cleaned it, but it already looked spotless inside and seemed to operate smoothly.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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In my 2001 Toyota Echo I have a noise in my suspension but I don't know where it is coming from. I made a video of me pushing down on the hood to produce the noise. I notice it when i turn the wheel at low speed, or even just driving at low speed. There is enough power steering fluid. The sound is a groaning, kind of like a rusty hinge.
Video with suspension noise ....
Suspension pics ....
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My husband and I have a 2007 Yaris (purchased new in May '07) with 23,300 miles on it. He's super-religious about taking the car in and getting it serviced and maintained regularly. But we noticed a few days ago that the A/C wasn't putting out cold air. My first thought is that it's simply out of freon and needs to be serviced.
But it just seems odd (or at least to this know-nothing!) that it could be out of freon already. My husband mainly drives it and says he doesn't run the air "any more than anyone else." Is it possible that even at 14 months it's just simply out of freon? I've never heard of a car's A/C system running out of freon so quickly.
Also, we were out of town for a week; the car wasn't driven during that time. We noticed the problem the first time we drove it upon returning home. That couldn't have anything to do with it, could it?
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I installed a new Goodyear alternator belt on our 07 Yaris couple months back and it started squealing after the first day and only during a cold start. My past experience has taught me that it's normally due to a loose belt (when belt is new) so I tightened it just a bit. After 3 days it started squealing again. I've increased the tension on the belt three times now and the squealing has not gone away. It's only on cold starts and only for about 1 minute. If memory serves me right there is no tensioner for the alternator belt. It would appear that it doesn't matter how tight the belt is, it still squeals on cold starts.
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My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
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When cold and not running, the shift lever sticks especially in 1st or 2nd and lacks that springy return to center. When cold running, Almost impossible to get in and out of 1st and 2nd, 3rd-5th stiff but manageable. After 5-7 min of driving, Shifts like butter. Tranny fluid has been replaced with amsoil syn.
This wasn't a progressive condition, shifted great one day (approx 2 weeks ago), next morning the fun began!
Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
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Just bought a 2005 Toyota echo 2 door. I'm getting it this week, just getting detailed and all that good stuff. I want to add mods to it, such as cold air intake, muffler and much more. Sadly it's an automatic but it will do. Any link to a website for a cold air intake?
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I have a 2002 toyota echo and about 2 months ago my front left wheel came off while driving and ever since it has been making a thumping noise that is related to the wheel speed. I have replaced the front struts and brakes but the noise is still there. There is also a whirring noise. I have ruled out wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rods. I noticed vertical play in the right cv axle. It moves up and down coming from the trans and not the knuckle. Could that be the noise?
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My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
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The other day I was leaving work and I switched on the ac. I heard an audible popping noise and the air immediately stopped being cold. I pulled over and popped the hood, it smelled like freon and I'm sure it was mixed with compressor oil as there is oil stains all around the compressor now. Did I blow my compressor? Is there a blow off valve that could have been tripped? The compressor is not kicking on now, I don't know if it is blown or this is due to all the freon spraying out? It had been squealing on startup for a little while, I assumed it was a belt.... 2002 echo....
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I've already replaced the Alternator and Water Pump today and I still cannot get rid of the noise and cold start squeal. The squeal goes away after the engine is warmed. A/C Compressor?
[URL] ....
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My 2001 automatic Toyota echo speed sensor broke right in half and now the other half is stuck in the differential case (cv shaft housing) and I can not get it out. at all. I'm trying to pull it right back through the hole where it came from but it just simply won't budge. any other method of removal.
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I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
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I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.
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