Isuzu :: 2001 Vehicross - Brakes Are Not Working Properly
Aug 4, 2015
I have a brake problem on my 2001 Isuzu Vehicross that has mechanics at 3 garages stumped.I bought this SUV in Dec 2013 and drove for 9 months with no noticeable problems.
At PA state inspection in Sept 2014, all 4 brakes and rotors were replaced. Since then the brakes slowly started to not engage when the pedal is first pushed. It progressed until they didn't engage until about an inch from the floor.
In Nov 2014, the brake lines were checked for leaks and bled twice. Each time they worked fine for a few days, then started to not engage again. A friend suggested maybe it was not brake fluid in my brake line. A mechanic assured me they contained brake fluid. Needless to say, I did not drive this SUV much over the last several months.Then in July 2015, another mechanic thought it was the master cylinder so I had that replaced. It did not fix the problem.
It has progressed to the point where I can feel they are engaging when the pedal is close to the floor, but not very strongly and I travel further & further until I finally stop.There are no dashboard indicators, nor codes on a diagnostic computer showing a brake problem. I have never seen brake fluid on the ground under the vehicle. What might be causing this brake problem?
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I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo I have been trying to fix a problem with the AC. It seems to run fine when idling, but when driving it starts to run poorly. I have manifold gauges, hooked them up to the low & high pressure ports earlier this morning. Static pressure was 97 on low port, and 100 on high port. Outside temperature was 75, but I don't know what the humidity was. I had the windows closed, AC on coldest, fan turned on full blast, recirculating.
I stuck a probe thermometer into the center vent, and after about 10 minutes the air was blowing at 40 degrees F. The compressor was spinning, and low pressure was 40 and high pressure was 225. I ran it like this for about 15 minutes, no problems. Then I wedged the throttle with a pencil and that pushed the RPMs up to a hair over 2000. Then the compressor started shutting off, then on, but not in any kind of rhythm that I could detect. The low pressure would drop to 23, the high pressure would jump up to 400; then high pressure would plummet to around 220.
Engine coolant level is normal, both fans are blowing, K & N air filter just got cleaned, relay seems good. The check engine light was on with a reading about the EGR valve, which I have cleaned. The engine light has not come back on. I know this is a lot of detail, but I'm trying to be thorough. I'm handy and mechanically inclined, but out of my depth at this level of AC troubleshooting.
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Whenever i leave work, i have to go in reverse to exit the parking lot. I noticed that the brakes are really ....mmm.....I am reversing and I press the brake to the bottom (it bottoms out very quick, not full lenght) and with it pressed at max the car barely stops. I almost hit the car that was parked on the other side..I freaked out cause I was at the bottom with the pedal and the car wasnt really stoping, so I pumped it up and it got harder and went lower to the bottom and it actually stoped and got responsive. I didnt notice that while going ahead from home, going forward. No issues whatsoever in normal driving. Pads are ok. Noticed that it is getting worse on hot days. Now I pump it up a few times before I even take out from park.
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I have a 2001 Prius, with disc brakes both rear and front.
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I have this weird problem with the cruise control of my 2002 elantra gt: I cannot set the cruise control at 30 or 40 mph, but I can do it somewhere above that (just went to the highway and set it around 60 mph). What could be the problem? Do cruise control systems need calibration or would I have to replace it?
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My car is a 01 b5.5 1.8t 5 sp manual transmission. it has 170xxx miles on it and for some reason, it won't start. last year I had some trouble with it where it would either start right up, or nothing at all, and it's doing it again, except now it just won't start at all. you turn the key, the battery engages, and all the electronics work (aside from the power windows, and sunroof), but there's not even an effort by the engine. it's like I didn't even turn the key. All last week, it was doing it, but I would just disconnect and reconnect the battery and it was fine. yesterday morning it just stopped trying. What could be the issue? it's really weird....also before this, I've been having a lot of trouble with once the cars been running for about 5 minutes or so, the power windows and sunroof decide to not work. but when I turn the car off and back on their fine. its odd. also, the alarm horn will honk randomly a single time. my electronics are all messed up
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I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
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My problem(s) are as follows:
I recently got a 2001 VW Golf 1.8T from a buddy in the Marines. He delivered it to me at my home almost 4 hours away, as described, reportedly without any issues. I got all of the paperwork transferred so that my wife could have a solid daily driver, only to discover ...
1) The vehicle in question was apparently used by a car audio company local to him, who has done some serious screwing with the electrical system in order to incorporate (and then remove) their crap.
2) When shifting through the gears, and coming to 4th gear, you get a couple of seconds of initial acceleration, followed by deceleration and RPMs falling, which in turn leads to the speedo dropping.
3) The same thing happens in 5th gear.
4) The only option is to downshift to a lower gear, which she did, and was apparently cruising along at 60 mph in 2nd gear, as 3rd gear was behaving the same way as 4th/5th upon downshifting. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm pretty sure this is a BAD thing .
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The Rodeo runs great, looks great, and very clean, EXCEPT when I start to accelerate from stop lights, or just before it stops, it bumps, knocks or jerks a little. Feels like the noise is coming from the rear end. what is causing this noise and how to correct the problem?
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Rebuilt engine, installed, started right up but had loud tic and started leaking oil. Pulled engine, fixed leak, inspected heads, re-installed, turns over but doesn't run. Weird thing is, first time I try to start it each evening it runs for about a second and then dies and then won't try to run again till the next day. This has happened 5 days in a row. I sprayed starter fluid in intake, no luck. I borrowed scan tool, no codes set just won't start.
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I have a 2001 F150. Front brakes replaced a few months ago. Last night, I realized my rear brake lights weren't working. I'm not sure how long they've been out or if it's related to the bigger problem.
While testing the brake lights by pressing the brake pedal, the pedal seemed to give out and sink lower. While driving the brakes worked but only when I pushed the pedal all the way in. Eventually the ABS light came on and stayed on.
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Same car I posted about a couple of days ago. It was running fine. My son was driving on the freeway, and tapped the brakes to disengage the cruise control, and the transmission just stopped working. It was not in gear after doing this and the transmission would not engage. It was nothing like a slipping transmission. The engine just revs with no resistance.
Got it towed home and checked the codes: P1529, generic 'Check Engine' light from the TCU; P0760 Transmission solenoid C and P0765 Transmission solenoid D. I have googled these codes individually, but not sure how they tie together.
Oh, I overfilled the transmission. Probably a quart too much because I didn't know how much extra I needed for the torque converter. I doubt this is the issue, but I will drain the excess. Where to check next?
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Just started two days ago... My '01 Rodeo stutters and then the Check Trans and Cruise Control Lights come on and go out about 10 seconds later.
It seems like it only happens when at lower speeds between 10-30 Mph and when first starting out on a drive.
Vehicle Info : 2001 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L Automatic 2WD with 108k Miles
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I have had my T-Reg for 2 weeks now, and absolutely love it! However, there are some strange things I have found with the Nav System that are just a bit annoying.
1) Not all cities are on the CD. This is obvious - they can't put *all* the cities on, but there has been more than one occassion where the city I needed was not in there. For instance, I tried to find "Centerville, VA" but the Nav System only knew "Clifton, VA" (I guess they are the same), which ultimately became "Fairfax, VA." I didn't realize it was "Clifton" until I arrived there (following a map) and saw a sign.
2) There are two sections of major roads that I travel (Rte. 95 and Rte. 66) where the Nav system stops giving me directions to my destination. It tracks my position on the map as I am driving, so I know I have a fix on at least 3 satellites, but when I press the "i" button for my next cue, it says something like "Routing to your destination is not available from this location." The blue line on the display that shows where I should be going also is missing. Once I exit either of these major roads (in the areas that this occurs) the Nav System resumes guidance.
3) The map display on the Nav System is always "behind" by 10 or 15 seconds. When I cross a roadway, the map doesn't indicate my crossing until a good 10 or 15 seconds later, depending on my speed. The turn-by-turn display and voice prompts are *dead on*, it is just the map that isn't.
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I had some Helix HID lights installed (opdparts). The lights all work except the driver side low beam. Here are two short vids showing problem:
The light in question also will flicker if I hit a bump. I tried to research solution but i'm ignorant on this matter.
Also The adjustments do work for the light. I can raise/lower or make beam go left or right.
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Just the other day my remote began to stop unlocking my doors at all? And the hatch button works most the time along with the lock. Locking it always sets the alarm but on occasion it doesn't actually lock the door. Am I just out a whole key..
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem?I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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Hey for some reason my esc light will pop on saying it's off without Mr pressing the button. What makes it do that?
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I have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
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Well, just a little history of what'd happened to my Prius 1 month ago; I've got rear-ended and was shunted forward and hit the car in front of me, so the damages were both bumpers at back (more severe) and front (slight damage to the front number plate). Got it back last Thursday and it all looked fine and well, until today where I was being asked to show off the IPA at work, and it is not working properly, in fact it is not working at all.
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Well my alarm is not working properly, when lock my doors all my doors lock but yet my headlights don't flash and i dont get any alarm chirp..
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