Just had a quick question in regards to my Sonoma. My 97 Sonoma 2.2l transmission died on me a few weeks back and i happen to have a working 4.3L transmission from an old 2000 Sonoma i once had. My question is will it work? Am I able to bolt the 4.3L tranny to my 2.2L engine? and if they would is there anything else I would require to make it work?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 GMC Sonoma Highrider Edition it has the 4.3 Vortex and its 4x4 my transmission has been whining slightly it has 169,000 miles on it runs and shifts great it when's when ever its in park and whens threw 1st gear from what I can tell but it doesn't whine in Reverse from what I can tell. This is my first truck and I love it so far and Id hate for the transmission.
View 2 RepliesI got a 1997 sonoma which has a p0300 code. I changed the plugs and wires, cap and rotor and the pcv value, and it still misses. what could this be?
View 18 RepliesAutomatic transmission died on my Variant at 100,450 miles. I did not expect to have this failure so soon, but I was pleasantly surprised that dealership replaced tranny for FREE without any questions asked, even having a fact that mileage on my car passed the covered limit.
View 2 RepliesDriving my '95 Nissan Pathfinder to the 'Retirement Farm' and the transmission dies at the top of a hill. Now the t-fluid reads above 'hot' on dipstick, but there's no burnt/bad smell or look (not dark brown) to fluid. Already had a blown head gasket, overheating, won't pass smog, etc. (could this be from an aftermarket thermometer?)
View 3 RepliesSo here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
View 2 RepliesTraveling approximately 40-45 MPH and my engine just quits. I was able to turn(very hard without power) to get off the road. I tried to restart the vehicle and it wouldn't crank over. After calling roadside assistance and the PD, I tried again and it stated. On the same day, I was driving home from appointment and it happened again, this time while accelerating from a stop and making a left turn. Same scenario, only this time the truck turned over a lot quicker than the first time. A couple days later, it happens again while accelerating after a stop and making a left hand turn. Now I call the mechanics and ask if this could have something to do with the module they replaced for my AC. They check out the truck and get a new module to install, which they did under warranty. We also left the truck with them to drive to see if it did it to them, it didn't. So DH takes truck and he drives it and it does it to him. Now though, with me and with him, the truck seems to start back up quicker than the first and subsequent times. We are going away for a bit and plan to leave the truck with the mechanics to drive to see if it does it to them since they still haven't had it happen while they've had it. I'm stumped. They were able to fix the ac very reasonably and a few other things have popped up, but this truck has been really good to me and I'm trying to drive it into the ground, so to speak, as it still has very low mileage for its age. Of course, the thought of it just conking out while driving is very disconcerting. I wait until the roads are completely clear to do u-turns and such, but in the back of my mind, I know it can shut off anytime.
View 7 Repliesi have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire 2.2..i was coming home from work i heard a clicking sound coming from the motor then the car just died and it wont start back up.
View 10 Replies2003 Toyota Matrix w/126,000 miles on it. Manual transmission just died suddenly while on the highway. I hear that this is common. This is not my first manual tranny, and car has been treated well. Web check & call to Toyota toll-free number reveal no recall. Toyota denies any knowledge of such a problem. They foisted me off, "Contact a local dealer for assistance." I await an estimate from a transmission shop. No longer trust Toyota. Will a rebuild solve this? Or should I seek new tranny? Are replacements any better? Or do they still use same lousy bearings/parts that made the original fail? Besides a new clutch, is there anything else one should repair/replace while car is taken apart? About how much should this cost, at most? Car is otherwise OK, do I repair & hope for another 75k miles, or do I junk the car? A friend suggests a 6-speed tranny.
View 6 RepliesWent to start my truck up about 3 hours ago to take my ol' lady to work. Turned it over and acted like the usual cold start. Well soon as I thought it was good to let the engine spin, it got to about 300-400 RPM and then died. So I shut the vent off and turned my head lights off (turned them on soon as I thought it was good), spun the engine again and when it hesitated once again I gave it some gas like you would on a carb (not pumping just gave it half throttle or so) brought up the engine to about 3K and it ran just fine.
I'm not sure if its the fuel filter (when the last time my dad even bothered to change it since he has done most of the work on it in the time we've had it) or if the fuel pump is going out for the 3rd time in the last 10 years. The last time the fuel pump went it was a bad Walker fuel pump. It was promptly replaced with a Bosch and has been going strong for the last 8 years or so.
If it is the fuel pump, my guess is either my dad is going to junk it or fix it. With it getting close to 260K miles its becoming warn out and showing its age. Been pretty dependable and will do just about anything you ask and it'll do it even if it takes a long time to get going.
The fuel lines are pretty rusty so if its the filter chances are we'll have to put in a new section of fuel line in. Its probably running close to 135K miles on it since it was last done. I've only started doing maintenance on it the last 6 years or so for the most part.
First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
My friend's 1997 4 cyl ranger died and won't start. Cranks fine with no codes on OBD2. Was running fine before it died.
View 5 RepliesMy transmission died last night on the way home from school. I was driving down the road just after leaving school and as I started to accelerate the car, I noticed that it wasn't moving so I pushed the pedal a little harder when I saw the rpm gauge rev. Up pretty high. The car was showing it was in 4 th gear and as I was slowing down so was the number on the display. I came to a stop and tried to move forward but noting. I had the car towed to the dealership so now the fun begins to see what is wrong with it.
I had the car in a few months ago for a whining sound coming from the car especially when I would put the car in reverse to back up. The dealer said we don't see anything wrong, go figure.
I'm suspecting that the transmission is shot. When the car was towed to the dealer I had to engage the parking break because the car wouldn't stay parked, it would roll even though it was in park.
I have a 97 Volvo 850. A couple weeks ago, it stalled a half dozen times while starting. The engine would turn over, start, run for a few seconds, then stall. Before calling for a tow truck, I started it up again, and it ran. After idling for a few minutes, it appeared to run smoothly. We drove home without a problem. When I took it into the shop, of course it wasn't acting up. A little later, the technician called to say it acting up for him so he knew I wasn't going crazy. He took it back to the shop, and it acted up again for another tech. They have since put their instruments on the car but it refuses to tell them anything. The check engine light works. All pressures are to spec. The fuel filter has been checked as well as all fuel lines. The car has not acted up now for over a week. The shop still can't find the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2 ltr, that started giving me problems last week. I was going to leave the house and got a bout 50 ft before I heard a "tink" noise and it died. It won't start now. I have checked everything that I can think of. It's not a rod or anything like that. It has to be something really simple. It will turn over, just can't seem to start.
View 6 RepliesWas driving 97 honda Accord 4 cylinder today when it made a loud rattling noise, took it in to advanced auto parts to see if they could give me a hint to what was wrong, as I was showing the employee the noise got progressively worse and he told me the connecting rod was loose and I could make it home if I went under 35 he mentioned something about tightening two bolts but having to drop the oil pan to get to it, as I was driving home the noise eventually turned into a clunk and the car died, when I try to start it up you can hear the engine turn but there is nothing after that, don't know much about cars but what is the process I need to go through to replace this connecting rod myself and how to get the car to start again.
View 19 RepliesMy niece has a 1999 F150 with a 4.6L engine. She was driving it down the road and it died and would not start. She called her husband, he went where she was, and when he got there, it started. She drove it home, and the next day, same thing. Died going down the road, no start, let it sit overnight, cranked like a new truck. Now it has died and will not start at all. They replaced the fuel pump. Nothing. When you turn on the key, the fuel pump runs continuously. If you pour fuel in the air filter, it will start. They checked all the fuses, nothing blown. When they try to hook it up to an OBD scanner, it does not work. No codes, nothing, it won;t pick it up.
View 9 RepliesMy 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
View 9 RepliesHere's what I have : 2003 F150xlt V6. about 65K miles.
Here's what happened : Drove it to the hardware store to pick up some stuff. Stopped in front of the garage. No abnormal indications during that trip at all. Decided to back to the garage and when I started it, it "ran" very rough and died in about 5 secs. Started again and chugged for about 2 or 3 secs. Tried a third time and would not run.
Here's what I've got : No CEL. all gauges indicate correctly. No anti theft blink. more than a 1/4 tank of fuel. in south central PA about at 35 degree day. parked level.
What I've checked : Wife turned the key on, I hear the fuel pump run a couple seconds with my ear in the rear wheel well. truck turns over fine. no start. turn the key off, about a two second buzz from the idle air control valve. when the key is turned on with my finger on the fuel pump relay, I feel it shift. I have pulled it and looked for corrosion. no problem. checked applicable fuses (visually).
I have tried to start with the IAC and MAF disconnected individually. tried to start it with a different key.
I have not : Banged on the tank to free up the pump. (I don't suspect it at this point)
I have not checked to see if there is fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Where is that schrader valve? I miss my books.
I have not verified that I have spark. What's the easiest way?
I have not modified my air intake in any way.
I'm headed out to a parts store tonight or walmart to get another scanner. I think my best clue here is the buzzing IAC. What's that mean?
My temperature and compass display just died on me, I don't have an owners manual with the truck so I don't know if it's a fuse I need to replace or what I need to do to get it working again.
View 1 RepliesI have a F150 2001 6cyl. Other day was doing 75 on freeway and lost all power. I replaced fuel filter, and pump is humming good (was replaced 4 years ago) checked the Inertia Switch and checked all relays, but truck still wont fire. I checked spark first and that's good.
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