GMC :: 2000 - Heater Not Functioning Properly?
Nov 25, 2013
2000 GMC pickup with 160 k. Didn't seem to get hot enough. Changed the thermostat and fixed that problem. Temperature is just below 210 degrees. Heater never did work well ( had it bout 6 months). After I changed the thermostat heater was cold. Ran it for a while and heater eventually warmed a bit but it doesn't get hot. And sometimes it goes cold. It goes back and forth....cold to warm..never hot. Is my heater core stopped up or do I have a control problem?
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My keyless entry is suddenly acting funny. 2010 manual accent hatch, bought new, no problems at all so far. 50k on the clock.
Usually when I press the unlock button, the marker lights flash once and the drivers door unlocks, press again you get another single flash and the other doors unlock. Right?
Press the lock button and it should flash twice and lock the car. Press lock again and it will honk.
I had not driven the car for about one week and this morning the locks work ok, but the lights and horn are not doing what they should.
When I unlock, I get no flashing lights at all. When I lock I get the double flash, but no horn. Also, the panic mode works as it should, lights and horn.
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Some time ago my power mirrors stopped working. I don't normally adjust my mirrors all that much since I'm the only one who drives it but when I have, adjusting the mirror knob does nothing... and when it does, moving the joystick down will move the mirror up!
Depending on whether the lights are on or off all seems to change whether or not the mirrors will work. My right mirror seemed to be working fine but then that stopped as well.
Nothing is ever consistent; either they don't work or work very intermittently.
I've pulled the door skins off and nothing is torn or ripped wire-wise, changed the knob to a brand new one and still nothing.What it could be?
I'll bring it to my mechanic and sure enough it'll work when tested then will stop working randomly. Everything else electric wise seems to be fine (windows, horn, headlights, locks).
Some other details:
2015 Golf 2.5L 50k miles
Sunroof
Base model
Heated Seats
V2 Autopilot
LED Tails w/ euro fog (no error bulbs)
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I have a 2012 Avalon Limited with the automatic temperature control. It used to be that the recirculation function was controlled automatically. The recirculation function would come on when ever the outside temp was hot enough and the inside temp setting was low enough. This is also how my 2000 Avalon XLS works and how my 2014 Tundra 1794 Edition works. Both have the automatic air conditioning system. Now the recirculation function must be turned on manually in order for it work. This has just been happening for the last 3-4 months. The dealer service writer tells me that all 2010 through 2012 Avalons with the automatic temp control Air Conditioning require the recirculation function to be controlled manually. Is this really true?
The manual makes no mention of this requirement to control the recirculation function manually. The manual says that the recirculation function MAY be controlled manually, but, when the A/C is on automatic temp control, the recirculation function is turned on and off by the A/C, depending upon the outside air temperature and the interior vehicle temp setting chosen on the A/C front panel.
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My brake pedal needs to be practically be pushed to the floor for the car to stop. I went to a Munro Muffler and they replaced all brake pads and turned the rotors. The problem of the pedal to the floor did not go away. The Munro tech struggled with this then popped me with this estimate - brake lines master cylinder to ABS / brake lines ABS to front brake flex hoses connections, / brake lines - ABS to rear junctions fittings at the passenger front door. Also they want to sell me a rear wheel bearing because the temperature at one point was very high. The total estimate is $840. I can remove the Rear wheel bearing to bring the estimate down to 500. I asked if we could do lines from ABS to Master Cylinder only and the tech advised against it. I feel like I am about to get ripped off and am going for a second opinion.
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I have a 2007 Camry SE-V6 and recently noticed my heater is not working properly. The fan dial works fine and I can adjust the speed of the fan no problem. When I adjust from the defroster, to the feet, to the face etc.. I don't hear that noise I usually hear of the system opening or closing the appropriate vents in behind the dash - all I hear is the fan blower going - as though it's just blowing on my windshield but no air seems to be coming in any of the vents (ie. if I put the dial to the face and the fan speed on high, no air comes out the vents).
If I adjust the temperature, I can feel heat is there vs. cold but since no air is blowing out (all I hear is the blower fan going), I don't get any heat in the cabin. Is this a fuse problem or something more serious? I have about 70,000km so I'm out warranty of course....
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I am having an issue with my 2008 Ford Escape XLT. It seems that my A/C and Heater fan isnt working properly. Basically, air only comes out when i put the fan speed to 4. With 1-3, no air comes out. If the A/C or Heat is on, I can feel cold air or heat coming out but the actual fan isn't running. It only runs when it is set to 4. What the problem could be?
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The star wheel is not bound up. I can adjust in manually and it clicks properly when tightening. The adjuster arm is touching the right area of the star wheel. What happens is, I manually adjust the rear brakes until they are close to perfect. I back up hoping to get them to self-adjust to the proper spec, and instead of tightening, they seem to loosen a few clicks and stay that way, leaving me with "half way" rear brakes. Meaning, it would take me a few hundred feat to come to any meaningful stop when pulling the E-brake.
I can also feel the difference between the rear brakes functioning, and not, despite their secondary role, and these are not functioning properly. Right after a drive, I can jack the car up and the wheel spins freely again as if I never adjusted them in the first place. They don't unadjust themselves to the point of being completely ineffective, just to the point of not being nearly how they should. I'd expect to be able to lock them up by pulling the e-brake, and it isn't even close.
When I apply the e-brake, I can hear them "grinding", sort of touching but not really. Everything seems to be installed correctly.
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While I was driving my 2000 Passat GLX last night, i noticed that the windows and the inside lights stopped functioning. When I reached home I also noticed that the car was not responding the remote lock either. This morning, I tried to start the car but there was no response from the engine although all the panel lights were on!
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Child safety switches on both doors are NOT activated, and both doors open OK when exterior handle is pulled. Jiggling the child safety switches does not resolve the problem. Removed interior handles thinking that perhaps some plastic tab had broken off, but both appear ok. Pulling on the linkage bar that connects handle to latching mechanism inside the door does not open the door. Indeed, the linkage bar won't move despite tugging.
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Windstar 2000, 260K, ABS not functioning, previously ABS light on all the time now of even with Key on Engine Stopped. While a long drive after 1600 KM failed to apply the Cruis. Horn not blowing. Retried cruise engaged but resume, horn, deceleration did not not function. Stopped, disconnected battery for half hour cruise and horn started functioning. Again after 400 KM stopped functioning. Now it is intermittent. Tail lights normally working. Cruise deactivating switch (switch unser the master brake cylinder) was changed by ford 5 years back, it is dry no signs of brake oil on it. Fuse no 10 is OK. Rapid repeated turning steering wheel has no effect. CEL On since 4 years code is for bank 2 CTM.
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I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century. The wiper controls are all goofy. The delay seldom ever works, just goes into slow steady speed most of the time. And they go through several more cycles when wipers are shut off. No doubt some entire multifunction module will have to be replaced.
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having some issues with my idle, when im coasting and i push in the clutch it doesnt drop down to idle like it used to it sticks at about 2000 when its dropping, also at a stop light the idle will rise up and hunt from 1700 to 2300 or so. also if im in a parking lot in second gear or so the rpms will rise and accdelerate the vehicle.
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I have a 2000 f150 lariat 5.4L 4x4 and when i start my truck up when it is usually below 40 my truck will idle around 300rpm and shake. It also makes popping noises in the exhaust. I am getting codes PO171 and 174 (running too lean in both banks) I have replaced my IAC, plugs, pcv valve, air temp sensor and MAF sensor and 02 sensors and nothing has changed. I have tried looking for for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner and starting fluid but i nothing has came up. I took it in to a mechanic and he suggested a bad intake manifold but i searched for a leak and found nothing.
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My Accent has a manually operated pop up type sunroof. Last summer I removed the glass on a particularly hot day. Unfortunately, when I put it back in that same day it would no longer seat properly along the front edge. When the sunroof is fully closed the front edge of the glass is raised above the seal. This gap creates a lot of wind noise and I'm concerned about water getting in now that winter is here. I've removed and re-installed the glass numerous times and just can't get it to lock down in the front. The metal mounting tabs on the front of the glass are going all the way into their slots. The back edge of the glass is sealing well and sinking flush with the black rim of the opening. The rubber gasket is in good condition with no warping or dislocation. I'm looking for some input before I start doing permanent things like bending the metal tabs or the roof opening.
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my 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
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I'm new to the passat side of vw vortex. i just bought a passat 1.8t. the car seems to have some kind of sensor problem. When i step on the gas to about 2000 rpm the car reaches the 2000 but dies out?? when they scanned the car on a scanner it said it needed a GPS sensor. the sensor doesn't come separate so I bought the entire throttle body which comes with a new sensor. and yet it still does the same thing. what could be the problem??
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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My wife and I have a Nissan Quest 2000. Our vehicle broke down last November 21, 2010 and the mechanic replaced the alternator and the battery. Our vehicle worked fine after that, but two weeks ago the battery cable came loose and I had to have that fix, by another mechanic. Our van worked fine for a week and now the Quest takes 15-30 minutes to turn over. What is wrong?
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My Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
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