Ford :: 1989 E150 Van - Thermostat Malfunction
Jan 23, 2013
Many years ago, we replaced the thermostat. Because it started running hot, we replaced with a hotter thermostat based on a mechanic's suggestion. Every now and again going up a hill and especially in warm temperatures the gauge suggests that the engine is about to overheat. Also, the temperature gauge reads really cold in the cold, and there isn't enough heat inside. Some mechanics have offered to replace the fan clutch but then they don't seem to think it's a big deal.
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1989 E150 Club Wagon, 5.0, EFI, Autotrans, 61kmiles.
Blower motor acting up.....sometimes on, sometimes off......mostly off now. For a while there whenever I would accelerate heavily, the Blower Motor would cut off, and when I leveled out in speed, it would come back on. I'm thinking maybe the thermal cutout in the Blower Motor Resistor Assembly..... but I also want to check the Blower Motor Relay, which I find on the schematic but have no clue where it is on the Van........ Also, it must go by another name because I can't find it listed in any of the parts stores.
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Car dies going down the road, last year I was towed three times on freeway, once in town. I noticed that before it shuts down the air condition stops and auto windows won't work then I go to step on the gas and nothing.. it can happen two miles from home or 100 miles from home. after it sits awhile it will start. been to mechanic and he had it for a month and ran it everyday he said and nothing like that happened.
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I was driving for work in the Coachella Valley (Palm Springs) today - it was 109 degrees. I hop in the car after a work visit, the vent covers open, but nothing comes out. The fan is blowing full blast - but no air was coming out of any vents. I tried manual mode, foot, defrost, off, etc. to no effect. I reset the climate system, reset all, no dice. Soon, the fan turned off, paused a couple seconds, then turned back on again and tried again to the safe effect. I turned off the ignition and turned it back on. Nothing. Drove to my next stop and parked. I came out, started up again - this time air comes out of the vents, but it's hot.
I took the car to the nearest VW dealer, and the foreman came out with his diagnostic tool (the big one - not the VAG-COM) and told me their were 23 faults with the air conditioning system.
One other interesting thing - my thermometer was going nuts at the same time. It was 109, but the thermometer quickly went up to 126 degrees within a few minutes - the engine temperature went up or got hot.
The good (?) news is I don't think this would have been covered under warranty, because their aren't any broken parts - just needs a recharge...at least that's what it looks like now.
The early diagnosis is that I need an A/C recharge, and if the refrigerant gets even a little low, the entire system shuts off.
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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1999 Ford E150 with 150K on it. This van has generally been a champ, but it's recently developed a habit of not starting.. sometimes. I replaced the battery a couple months ago, and the starter sounds fine, it always cranks enthusiastically, but the engine won't start. It's as though it's out of gas, but there's plenty of gas. And I'll retry every so often, and then all of a sudden, hours or days later, it will just start right up like nothing ever happened.
On one such occasion I finally paid to have it towed to the shop. And the mechanic goes out, turns the key.. and it starts right up. So then they run the standard diagnostics, said the fuel pressure looks good. So they don't have any idea what the problem is either, and their only suggestion is to tow it in again next time it doesn't start, or leave it with them for a long time until they can recreate the problem.
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1994 Ford E150 5.0L. Will not start when the weather is above 70 Degrees F. No fire from coil...
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My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug? The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also. Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement...
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
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I have a 2001 E150 and when i turn the AC/heat/air on it will only come out the defrost vents. Whenever i flip the switch left or right nothing comes out, but when i put it on defrost it works... but only through the defrost vents....
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I have a 97 E-150 with factory air (vin L) the heat/cool quit working just before summer it quit blowing cold. The old man took it to some mechanic (i hate when he does that) and he fixed it so there was air only saying he had a choice of cold or hot (being summer in the desert he chose cold). Now that it is cold and we are traveling where defrost is needed, I need heat!!! I went to the Ford dealer and picked up a new potentiometer and that did not fix the problem. whenever the unit is on the a/c compressor kicks on........ Is this electrical or vacuum and where might i find the problem?
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It is a 2005 E-150 van 5.4 with dual air. The problem is it only makes 62-65 degree air at idle. Going down the road it makes 38-42 degree air. I checked pressures At idle he gauges say the low is to high and high is to low bring it up to 1500-2000 rpm and pressures are where they should be. I think the compressor is suspect. I had this exact problem with a Ford 500 and fixed it by changing the RCV . I get the feeling that this compressor doesn't have an RCV. If it was a lack of air flow I would think the high side would be to high.
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Have an E150 van with 302 engine. Where is the low pressure charging port on this beast.? The high press. is immediately visible but can not find low....
The van still has the old r-12 and I have 2 cans left...want to charge the system one more time before we get our new 6.0L VAN late this winter!
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I have a 1996 Ford E-150 van that has a misfire. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor have been changed and I still have it. The error codes come up as cylinder 3. ( I was getting the same before I replaced everything.) Scanner also says lean on bank 1. It also says that the O2 sensor behind the cat is not doing much.
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1988 Ford E-Series Van ford van starting problems I have a 1988 ford van e150 302 that wont start. when it did start, it ran rough, then progress to needing start fluid to start. Now it cranks but wont start at all. it sat for almost a year with additves in gas but it does smell now unlike normal gas. it has sta-bil and gas line anti freeze as additives. A rail mount high pressure pump was put on two years ago. Could the hi-pres pump been installed backwards? Now it will not start even with starting fluid, just cranks and tries(pops and backfires a little sometimes). I towed in to a mechanic to get diagnosed.
In regards to the 1988 ford van start problems, the mechanics said that fuel is bad and needs drained, that in tank pumps seem to have pressure(low pressure pumps). the rail (high press pump) they say tests 15-20 psi only. the want to drain tanks, replace pump and "go from there". They also said a multitude of problems can happen from "bad gas" ranging from injectors needs cleaning to bent push rods, lifters and crank shaft can be damaged. All may need cleaned, fixed or replacing. does this seem a little fishy ? Could it need the timing set? Or injectors bad?
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I just finished replacing the entire AC system on my 88 E150 ... All was well at first but shortly after finishing the r12 charge, the clutch began to click very loudly when engaging or disengaging. You can clearly hear it inside the cab. The air gap was set to .028 which is within spec according to the manual. I checked the air gap today and it was about .030
Am thinking,, could the snap ring have come loose that holds the pulley on allowing the pulley to be pulled forward when it engages? Once engaged the tension from the belt pulls the pulley back in in alignment? It sounds like two pieces of metal smacking together, even when it disengages. Kinda of like if you had the pulley in one hand and the clutch in the other and smack them together.
I did have a little trouble getting the snap ring to seat in the groove on the bottom side of the snap ring. I know it locked in the groove very good where the gap in the ring is and on both sides. The thicker bottom of the ring, I was not absolutely positive it was in all the way. i lightly tried tapping on it and it wouldn't go in any farther. There was no visible gap, I just couldn't tell if that thicker part was in all the way.
I used the proper removal and install tool when setting the air gap. The install tool threaded onto the compressor shaft and pressed the clutch plate on as you tightened the outer nut, so I didn't use a hammer...
I have two different new clutch plates. I used the one on the right as the one on the left fit a little tight on the shaft. The compressor is a FS6 xbolt and all the parts are motorcraft. What to check?
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Ford E150 Conversion Van 1991, V8. Replaced spark plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injector, cleaned gas tank, replaced gas. Ignition turns and starts but sputters loudly and stalls soon after. We've tried just about everything but it won't stay running.
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I need to replace the fan clutch on my 1993 Ford E150 Club Wagon 4.9L Chateau. The original part, YB466 has been replaced. The new ones are all too long and the fan will hit the radiator. The original is 2-3/8" long front to back, including the nut. The replacement ones available are 2-5/8" or longer. I have talked to our local machinist, and he says the new parts cannot be made shorter. The water pump shaft is not long enough to allow shortening. He says look for a shorter water pump.
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I've got a 93 ford 150 econo Van 310,000 miles. Steering volume ratchet shaft bused a couple of years ago. Horn worked then only the airbag lite would flash on and off. Got everything from the yard, steering wheel, air bag the whole thing. Replaced it and the air bag light stayed off and horn worked! About 6 months ago the airbag light again on & off then right after that the horn wouldn't work. However after a good rain and as I was turning mostly right sometimes left. The horn would just start blowing until I straighten the wheel and if someone was close by I would just wave. But the horn would still not work normally. it is finding a ground when I turn the wheel. I have no leak inside only happens in or after a rain sometimes. It rains a lot.
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The differential is howling like crazy on my 1993 E150 5.0 van, it has over 200k miles on it so I'm assuming the bearings need to be replaced! Before I tackle this major project is there any special tools I need or a special procedure I should use?
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How would I test (if Possible) the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch on my 88 E-150 4.9L? I had to replace the evaporator, it was leaking along a seam. I have a feeling the Cycling Switch is bad too.
I was hoping for a simple test w/o Gauges. The Switch is in a real tough spot to remove it. I also heard they could be adjusted. There are no leaks in the system and no blockages, that we detected when we evacuated and recharged the system.
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I have a 1987 Ford E-150 with 160K - used to haul the race car. It's had a lot of issues and the latest is that when the engine has warmed up, then shut down, the starter struggles to turn the engine over until the engine cools. Once it does, it turns over and starts right up.
I figure it's the starter getting hot, but I want to know why this would be the case. Does the heat expand the starter shaft so it binds a bit with the bearing? Is it the increased resistance of the wire?
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