Father-in-law purchased 1982 Fiat Spider. The car won't go into 4th gear, scrapes when you let the clutch out. It scrapes a little when you put it in 2nd gear. 1st, 3rd, and Reverse no problem. Changed Syncronisers, no change, put in transmission from doner car, same problem.
View 7 RepliesI finally reinstalled my engine and transmission with a new clutch in my 1975 fiat spider. I've managed to get it started and idling nicely, but when I put it in gear, as soon as I begin to let the clutch out, it stalls. It's as though it triggers a kill switch.
Not sure if it has something to do with the clutch safety switch...? I tried jumping it in case the switch is bad, but that wasn't it. Maybe a vacuum leak/Though I would think a vac leak wouldn't let it idle and rev nicely which it does.
I'm stumped with my 1973 Fiat 850 Spider. This little car has a grand total of 10 fuses, 8 below the dashboard, and two in the rear where the engine is. So, it's not that complicated, right? Wrong.
So here's the story: I purchased this little car in Philly. Everything works, except after a few days, I noticed that the car battery was out. So I jump it and allow the alternator to recharge it. It runs fine for a few days until it goes dead again. It reaches the point where it's completely dead, no service light, no radio, nothing.
I figured I bought a car with an old battery. I replaced it with a new one from Walmart. It runs great for a few days until gradually no charge again. I take it to a shop to fix something else, they test the battery and they tell me it's bad, that I bought a brick. OK, bad luck, right?
I replace the Walmart battery for another one under the warranty. What can go wrong now? Well, the same symptoms appeared after a few days. By now, surely it cannot be the battery. So I know what you're thinking. My little convertible has a parasitic draw. But remember, it has only 10 fuses, no power windows, no power locks, no computer, no software, no Bluetooth...gish, it has a push-button AM radio, for crying out loud!
So I proceed to recharge the battery. I trickle charged it for 18 hours or so. The battery is now back to new. I then connected my meter in series to the negative pole to measure the amps, expecting as you would imagine a draw of at least 4 amps. Well, the little devil has a draw of only .35 amps, well below the acceptable level for a car this type (right?).
So what gives? Does the car have gremlins or parasites? Am I going crazy? Can I be so unlucky that I have had three bad batteries in a row (even from Walmart)? Am I missing something?
i have a 1982 chevy 1500 4x4 with a 700R4 and it has never give me any problems at all has always shifted firm and smooth goes instantly in to drive and reverse. One day last week i got in and the truck will not shift in to second actually wont come out of first the reverse still works fine and the first is still fine it does not slip or hesitate at all. I pulled the gear cover off and can spin it!
View 8 RepliesMy 1982 240D Mercedes Benz skips especially when accelerating. While it doesn't do it all the time, when it does it really loses power and comes almost to a crawl (at least 10 mph decrease in speed) and is quite annoying for me and probably for the drivers behind me, what's going on. My guess is that the fuel injectors are clogged as they have never been changed since the car's creation. When idling it does not skip; only when engaging and shifting through the gears (this is a manual transmission) especially when going up into third gear and fourth.
View 14 RepliesMy 82 f150 4x4 302 c6 trans is acting up. My c6 is slow to shift into any gear when I shift the column shifter, after a moment it jerks into gear, also it doesn't seem D is doing anything but all the other gears seems to function manually or auto.
Fluid level looks ok, maybe a little high on the dipstick. I'm going to check the modulator and do a fluid/filter change but looking for a link to the band adjustment screw ?
I have a 96 ZR2 4.3L VIN W engine. original problem: rough idle, ran pretty good on highway, chk engine lite on, error code P300 random misfire. Just in general maint. I replaced fuel filter first. After replacing injector spider now engine will not start.
View 6 RepliesI have a Fiat Punto mk2, and when I launch off with a couple of passengers in the car with me I hear a creaking noise coming from somewhere around the rear. I haven't heard it in any other situation, and it doesn't do it when I'm in the car alone. What this may be?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 Alfa spider. It has a blip at idle. Originally it was much worse. Idle would drop to 500 then pop up to 1200 the back down, back up etc. Engine would sometimes stall while driving. This happened as I would take my foot off the gas coming to a stop. I replaced the first large air duct between the mass air flow gauge and the air intake chamber(cracked on underside). Worked but still had blip which was then unpredictable. I cleaned the air flow gauge and the constant idle actuator with air flow cleaner. This worked more but I still have the blip during engine warmup. Idles fine at start up, blips for a while, then stops bliping as engine nears running temperature. What should I do next?
View 1 RepliesSo a friend of mine recently leased a 2016 Fiat 500x and they're experiencing a problem where about once a week, they'll get a string of like 10 warning messages all in a row on the dashboard. The say something is wrong with the airbag, the power train, the electric parking brake, and too many other things to recall offhand. The thing is, nothing is actually wrong. The car works fine aside from those error messages coming up.
My friend took it into the local fiat dealership to get it looked it and they were able to pull the records of all those warning messages from the computer. They kept the car for 5 days before finally getting it back to her, but a week later she started getting the messages again. They only come up about once a week.
i have a 1972 fiat abarth and the gas tank has the larger filler hole for the old leaded gas fille nozzles Can i buy an adaptor for the gas tank filler hole to accomodate the new skinnier gas filler nozzles?
View 8 RepliesI've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
I have a 1982 short-box chevy pick-up with a diesel 8 cylinder 6.2L that will start and run for a few seconds and then shuts down. It may restart and do the same thing. It will not keep running after an initial few seconds.
I have a mechanic that operates an automotive repair business in our hamlet and he took it on although not an expert on diesels. He works on it when he gets time and talking to him today he feels it must be an electrical problem shutting things down as fuel is getting from the fuel pump to the injection pump.
My 1982 Ford Granada cranked slowly and failed to start. Before getting a new battery (it's already 6 years old), I cleaned the battery terminals and cable clamps from corrosion and re-connected them. The car started with no problem. The second time I turned the key, the car cranked slowly and again it failed to start. This time, I noticed the battery was being drained with the ignition off (the voltage was way too low). I frantically removed the negative battery terminal to prevent a fire and drained battery. When I re-connected the battery terminal, the engine tries to crank with no key in the ignition. Is there a relay or solenoid that froze in a closed position? Or, could it be a faulty ignition switch?
View 15 RepliesHow to install alternator in 82 Jeep CJ7 with serpentine belt?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1982 Ford Granada with a 3.8L V6 engine. It has an old-fashioned distributor with a cap, rotor and vacuum advance mechanism. I can’t seem to find any provision for loosening and rotating the distributor in order to adjust the ignition timing. Nor can I find a timing scale alongside the crankshaft pulley. Can the ignition timing be manually adjusted in this engine? Or, is it computer-controlled like the modern vehicles?
View 8 RepliesI'm a newbie who just took ownership of a 1982 turbo wagon. It's been sitting a while but started right up and ran well for about 20 miles until it began stumbling on acceleration.
The car starts easily and runs smoothly until it gets hot and then it suffers severe hesitation and stumbling. Occasionally it will stall but starts right up again. It has never failed to restart immediately.
On a cool day, it will run smoothly for thirty minutes or more before the problem begins. On a hot day, the problem begins in five minutes.
Have an '82 MB 300D. Started noticing a constant knocking noise from the rear anytime I got it over 35rpm on an incline. Subsided if I pulled over and let it sit for 20mins or so. Now knocking just comes up randomly when accelerating. Goes days without doing it. Eases up when I let off the accelerator. Sound just like engine knocking but at rear of vehicle.
View 2 RepliesI've recently acquired a 1982 Chevette. 4-door manual transmission, gas (not diesel). It's being used for a film, and it's perfect except for one little issue.
The car starts fine (sometimes needs a little starter fluid), and generally drives fine around town. But if you sit and idle for a couple minutes after driving (usually longer than a normal red light), once you start going (usually in 2nd gear), the engine sputters and the car dies. When this happens, the car won't start for 10-15 minutes. The engine turns over but doesn't fire. Starter fluid will get it going, but as soon as it burns that, it dies.
The problem appears to be that gas is not getting into the carburetor. It has a new fuel pump, and we've replace the fuel line and cleaned out the fuel filter. The carb is not stock. It's a Holley that it had when we purchased it. There are a lot of outlets capped off, and I don't know enough to know what might not be hooked up properly.
After the car dies, the fuel pump buzzes as if it's trying to pump fuel, but it doesn't appear to actually be pumping. Normally we just wait it out, but sometimes we kill the battery trying to restart it. We've successfully push-started it a couple of times, but that only works after enough time has passed that it would have probably started up fine anyway (if we hadn't killed the battery trying).
To sum up, if we follow this sequence of events, the problem will always present itself: start up normally (after not having driven for a couple hours), drive a few miles, idle for 2 or more minutes and then continue driving. Once we continue driving, it dies before we get up to speed.
What to do? I only know enough about this to barely describe the problem, but I am not a car guy. I've been learning little by little with this one. We have recently replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, ignition control module, ignition coil, thermostat, o2 sensor and alternator belt. None of this has had a noticeable affect on the problem.
I've been working on this truck all summer revamping it from the frame up and I'm at the point of getting the engine going. I had it turning over and it would not start. Bled the injectors and tried again. Cranked over a couple if times and when I tried again the cable to the starter motor heated up.
Took the starter off and did a check and it spins fine.
I read were the next check should be turning the engine by hand. I did this and noticed the serpentine belt would turn on the air compressor pulley clutch, but the compressor would not rotate. Attempted to turn the compressor over by hand and it would not go.
I'm assuming the compressor is seized. Would I be correct? If this is true how do I remove it? I'm a little afraid of handling air conditioning systems, however with the right directions I would tackle it. After removal is it easy to repair or should I put another one on? How do you recharge the system?
1982 C-10 6.5L Diesel
I had a leaking reserve tank on my Honda. These bikes have 2 gas tanks. Why I do not know. It is a pain to remove this tank. I fixed the leak but after it started hard. I thought perhaps the carbs were dried out and it took a while because of that. Once I originally got it started it started fine. It would miss a little especially when cold. I had not taken it very far until the other day.
After 10 miles it began to lose power and shut down completely. After 10 minutes I got it to run for 5 more miles. I stopped to do something and left there about another 5 miles till it shut down again. After another 10 min wait I got it to run after turning it over for a long time. After a few more times I got it home to storage. I thought after it cooled off it would start up easier, but no it started just as hard as it was warm.
What could I have screwed up by simply repairing the reserve fuel 2nd tank? Could I have gotten some dirt or something into the tank?