Avalon :: Brakes Pedal Doesn't Go Down As Far
Mar 2, 2016
I just got my 2014 Avalon XLE Premium and the brakes seem a little strange to me. When I first press down on the brake pedal the pedal goes down and the brakes seem a bit light, when I let up on the pedal and then push right back down the pedal doesn't go down as far and the brakes are firmer.
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Can get up to speed about 55-60 in my 2003 f250 6.0 4x4 truck and hit the brakes hard and the pedal gets hard almost like you cut the truck off and the truck doesn't stop well I can let off the pedal and hit it again hard and it works like it should. Also when it does this the power steering doesn't work. I was on an exit ramp and almost wrecked when I exited off the interstate I hit the brake pretty hard and couldn't steer I let off the brakes then hit them again and it worked fine and so did my steering. It would seem that the two are connected somehow. What's wrong?
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I was browsing some 3G Avalons and I found a low mileage(95k miles) 06 Limited but it doesn't have the navi system/package? I thought all limited trims had navigation.
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My '11 Limited has a trunk light that isn't working. I figured it was a bad bulb so replaced it (the old bulb's filament wasn't broken tho). Nope, still didn't work. So I took out the entire little bulb holder to check for bad connections, corrosion, etc. .....the connections are fine. Next I got my volt/ohm meter and checked for DC voltage at the plug coming into the unit.....I got 12.83 volts. So I hooked a jumper directly from the plug to a bulb's contacts and still no light.
What am I missing here ? How can I read voltage at the meter and not have the juice to light a tiny bulb?
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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Just picked up my Avalon and the drivers side front door doesn't want to shut. It will latch but won't close all the way. If you give it a hard slam it will. All other doors shut with a gentle push.
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My 2008 XLS has 172,000kms on it and has been having a vibration problem. Specifically, the gas pedal vibrates and the whole car shudders when it is between 55-80 km/h and in 6th gear. The shudder/vibration occurs when the car has to drop a gear to accelerate. After it downshifts, the vibration is gone. It has been happening for the past few months. The vibration did go away for a while after I changed the brakes. So, not sure what could be going on there!
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I have a 2002 avalon XLS. In the morning the car cranks but wont start unless I press the gas pedal. After that everything was fine. But recently the problem is getting worse. The car became harder to start although it will start eventually. I have changed the Mass air flow sensor, but did not solve the problem.
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V10 TDI doesnt give any boost when accelerator pedal is flattenned. What could be wrong.
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When I'm cruising along in my 2011 Hyundai Tucson and lift my foot off the gas to slow down, then give it gas again, the rpms rev but the car acts as if it's in neutral for a couple of seconds...It doesn't speed up. This is intermittent but becoming more frequent. What's up with that?
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The brake lights come on in the rear after i park the car. it appears the brake pedal is not springing back for enough to disengage the brake lights. It does not do this all the time, but seems to have start doing this at night when it gets colder. I can look outside and see my brake lights on, then go off, then come back on. It has made the battery go dead twice in the last week. is this a easy fix or something more complicated. this has nothing to do with parking brake, i normally do engage parking brake since i park on a flat surface road in front of my home.
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I have a '96 2.2L Cavalier with an automatic transmission. The car has about 275,XXX miles on it. Recently, I have been having problems with the transmission. Basically, the transmission doesn't shift unless I release the gas pedal and press down on it again. It always happens around the 20-25 m.p.h. mark. If I don't release the gas, my speed doesn't increase much, i.e. it goes up to about 30 m.p.h. and I hear the engine revving hard. Once I do the gas pedal thing though, it accelerates well.
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Friday night my car is fine. Sunday, after some wintry weather, I start the car and it shakes and stalls out. I start it again and notice the check engine light and the ESC light is on and the car doesn't respond to the gas pedal. No response to hitting the ESC light. Runs rough like it was 25 years old. I limp around the block and decide not to drive it. I hope it's a really simple inexpensive computer chip replacement....
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I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 226k and my parking/E-brake annoys me. The brake isn't stuck or anything, but the pedal doesn't come back all the way, at least not enough to turn off the brake light or accompanying dinging. Most of the time, the cable is disconnected from the pedal to keep the light and dinging off unless I have to use it. Is there any way to adjust the parking brake to get the pedal to fully return or is there something else wrong with the system?
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The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
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For as long as I remember (40000+ KM), I've noticed that my steering wheel vibrates when stopped with the brakes and in D. ie, while stopped at a red light. It immediately goes away when I lift off the brake or put the car into neutral.
The vibration isn't crazy. I can only feel it through the steering wheel or touching around it. However, it is certainly very noticeable and also audible.
Have this vibration through the steering wheel? (Avalon V6) I'm hoping this isn't a defect in the car...
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I have a 2007 Avalon and really enjoy the car. The only fault I can find is the weird shifting. It seems like every time that I apply the brakes, the car will downshift immediately and the whole car will jerk left/right due to the sudden downshift. Sometimes it will shift back up and cause the car to jerk a little but will be smooth after. Some times I apply the brakes and it does nothing.
I also get the occasional hard shift but the bigger issue here is the downshift while braking. It kind of ruins the driving experience on an otherwise great car as one tends to use the brakes often. It's especially annoying while going down a hill and applying the brakes. I have watched the tachometer before and noticed it jumps up to 3k or so from a normal 1500 or so RPM's. It may not be downshifting per say, but it's definitely doing something.
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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